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This village had been totally changed by Voltaire ’s residence in it, and its inhabitants still.retain nearly the same affluent and comfortable appearance as during his life-time,—an effectdoubtless owing to the activity and industry displayed through every part of it. This forms sostriking a contrast to the extreme poverty and indigence exhibited in most of the villages of thesame province, that few travellers visit Geneva without previously stopping at Ferney,—notentirely by way of paying tribute to the memory of that great man, but to enjoy a sight of theease and comfort which characterise this beautiful spot. It is certain that the local situation ofFerney considerably favoured the philosopher’s projects, it being a kind of isthmus, the narrow partof which stands on the French frontier, and the rest on the states of Switzerland and Geneva.The houses are well built; and the village, taken all in all, bien percb —standing as it were at thejunction of four public roads. The chateau is handsome, without magnificence; and the externalarchitecture, though simple, offers to .the view an excellent well-finished habitation. The libraryis extensive, and stored with valuable books; the apartments numerous, richly furnished ; andthe terrace, which is in front of the castle, superb, meriting the traveller’s particular attention,not onty from its elevation and extent, but from the noble prospect it commands. ‘The viewplunges on the beautiful lake of Geneva, distant about three miles and a half, and extends itselfover a fertile well-cultivated country, in part laid out in vineyards and plantations, which orna-,ment its banks, and of which the gentle tint of colouring harmoniously contrasts with the bluetransparency of the lake,—while in the back-ground the sight enlarges and multiplies, and the eyeis only stopped by objects still more sublime. Among these are the grand glaciers of Fancignie, ofwhich Mont-Blanc , truly styled the giant of the Alps, before which every stupendous peak thatsurround it seem to bend, majestically rears his head, and occupies the centre.
On the eastern side of the court-yard which leads to the chateau, stands a small church, orrather chapel, built by Voltaire , with the following inscription over the door, written in largeletters
DEO EREXIT VOLTAIRE, M.DCC.LXI.
and contiguous to the chapel, a kind of mausoleum, called le Tombeau de Voltaire *, a sketch ofwhich I shall annex by way of vignette (See plate XII. fig. 2.). Though he was not buried there,it is most probable that, at the time he had it erected, he meant to end his days in this enviableretreat.
*
/