114 '

and five in width, and so elevated that trees cannot exist, are nevertheless opulent, well informed,and carry on a considerable traffic in cattle and cheese.

The day after I visited the Pont du Diable, or Teuffels-Bruck, three miles and a half distantfrom Urseren , where the road, which is also the one which leads to Switzerland , is rugged andsteep; but, at no great distance from the above town, it is cut through a hard rock, forming avault of about eighty yards long, twelve wide, and ten in height. This passage or gallery, effectedat great expense and labour, through a hard quartzose rock, is called by the people of the countryUrner-lock, or Tron du Pays d'Urner, or Urseren .

The rocks are here so abrupt, and the valleys so contracted, that before this opening was made,the numbers of people that perished by the avalanches was dreadful; for the falls of snow are sofrequent and tremendous in the spring, that there have been instances of the valley being entirelyfilled up with it; so that the following lines of Claudian , who lived in the fourth century, alludingto the army commanded by the general Stilico , passing across the Rhtetian Alps, may be deemedequally applicable to this high contracted pass.

Sed latus, Ilesperi* quo Rhastia jungitur ora,

Praruptis ferit astra jugis, pandit-que terendamVix *state viam. Multi ceu Gorgone visaObriguere gelu. Multos hausere profund*

Vasta mole nives, cum-que ipsis s*pe juvencisNaufraga candenti merguntur plaustra barathro.

Interdum glacie subitam labente ruinamMons dedit, et tepidis fundamina subruit astris,

Pendenti malefida solo. Per talia tenditFrigoribus mediis Stilico loca.

The greatest curiosity in the Devil’s Bridge consists in the boldness of the execution, beingbuilt of one single arch, a plain centre or semi-circle, of about two-and-twenty feet radius, sup-ported on two stupendous rocky peaks, nearly perpendicular, between which flow at the depth ofsome hundred feet, the foaming waters of the Rheuss, whose rapid stream, and the extreme im-petuosity of so great a body of water, confined in so narrow a rocky channel, added to the vastheight of the different falls, oftentimes occasion, by the vapour of the water, a constant series ofrainbows, the effect of which is truly beautiful. I have not omitted, in drawing N° XXVII.which represents the bridge, to add the quartzose rocks which skirt the valley of Schollenan, whosestrata are nearly vertical.

After having carefully examined the chain of mountains that descend along the Rheuss, in thecantons of Uri, we returned to Urseren , where I was detained a few days, in order to participatein the hilarity of a festival. It was one instituted in commemoration of the return of a youth, theson of a respectable man, an innkeeper*, at whose house I had taken up my residence, who (sin-gular as it may appear, although it is frequently the case in Switzerland ), desirous of seeing theworld, had enlisted in one of their regiments, at that time in the service of France , and who,having completed his three years (the allotted period), was daily expected to be restored to thearms of his father and family, by whom he was adored. And so amiable was this young man, thathis youthful associates and friends, rejoicing at the idea of seeing him again, had assembled, withdrums beating and the banners of their department flying, to proceed as far as Urner-lock, in orderto welcome his return and make his entry truly triumphant.

One thing, however, must be noticed, that this young soldier’s friends were much respected,and that his father, though what in England would be styled an innkeeper, having held the officeof Thai Amman, or chief magistrate, with great honour and probity, the inhabitants, desirous ofpaying him a compliment, and showing particular attention and attachment to his family, hadcountenanced this jubilee, which, of course, naturally created others; so that, for a week or tendays, Urseren was nothing but mirth and jollity.

Being, however, anxious to proceed, I took my leave the third day after my arrival, perfectlysatisfied with their entertainments, and charmed at the manner in which an uninterrupted succes-sion of rustic amusements were continually introduced to vary the scene and delight the guests.

* Properly speaking, there are no regular inns, but literally private houses, where the traveller may think himself fortunatein being admitted; and where, in general, excellent accommodations are met with*

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