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A practical handbook of dyeing and calico-printing / by William Crookes
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CHAPTER V.

LINEN FIBRE.

'T'HIS fibre is obtained from the stem of an animal plant called Linumusitatissimum, belonging to the natural order of the Linnce. Of whatcountry it is a native is uncertain ; but from its having been used by theEgyptians for mummy cloths, and that it is still found in those parts ofEgypt which are inundated by the Nile, it is conjectured that it mustoriginally have come to us from that country.

Three distinct varieties of flax are grown in Europe, viz., the cold or largeflax, which has thin, tall stems, and yields a very fine long fibre, in greatdemand for the beautiful fabrics known as “ Flemish Batist.” This flaxripens earlier than the two other varieties.

The second variety is the hot or small flax, which yields a large quantity ofseed (linseed), but its fibres are coarse and short.

The third variety, termed middle-sized flax, is the one most largelycultivated, and, as regards the fibre, most generally used.

Flax is grown in great abundance in Italy, Russia, Saxony, Holland,Belgium, and the northern parts of France. The fibre is separated from theplant in the following manner :—

The flax after being cut is allowed to remain in the field till it is dry. Theseed is then beaten out, after which the flax undergoes a process termedretting, producing a peculiar fermentation, whereby the glutinous matters aredestroyed, and the woody portions of the stem disintegrated; these portionsbeing afterwards separated from the fibre by a mechanical process. Variouspropositions have been made at different times to substitute the use ofchemicals for the retting process, which consists in steeping the plant inwater; but it appears that the latter plan succeeds best. The water must beemployed at a temperature of 96-8° F. (36° C.) The plants are placed verticallyin tanks, so constructed as to admit of the water being renewed from time totime.

Viewed through the microscope, flax fibre exhibits hollow cylindrical tubes,open at both ends; the average diameter of these tubes is from to j'j m.m.;their surface is smooth; septa or knots appear at intervals, but they are notfurnished with hairy appendices, as is the case with hemp.

Bleaching Linen.

The flax fibre is surrounded by a somewhat thick incrustating matter°f a yellowish grey colour, and consequently it is far more difficult to