GARANCIN STYLE.

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2 litres ; ultramarine, 15 grms. Second solution :—Water, 40 litres ; chlorinewater, 2 litres ; ultramarine, 1-120 kilos.

For goods dyed when much catechu has been added to the garancin, thefirst chloring solution consists of—Water, 24 litres ; chlorine water, 2 litres ;ultramarine, 15 grms. Second solution :—Water, 60 litres ; chlorine water,2 litres ; ultramarine, 1-120 kilos.

Goods dyed with the same colours, but with white ground, are treated inthe same manner, but the ultramarine is dispensed with. It is quite evidentthat the chlorine water used should be pure, and quite free from hydrochloricacid.

Fig. 22 gives an idea of the arrangement of the rollers or cylinders abovealluded to.

When chloride of lime or bleaching-powder is used it is applied in severalways : madder-dyed goods for clearing are run through a very dilute hot solu-tion of the bleaching-powder, until the dyer or clearer considers the whitessufficiently restored and bright. For garancin-dyed fabrics the same processm^y be adopted, but experience has shown that the higher temperatureemployed in garancin-dyeing tinges the whites more deeply than madder,while the less stability of the colours produced renders it dangerous to let thepieces run long enough to clear the whites. In consequence, two othermethods of clearing garancins are adopted:—The first consists in paddingthe piece to be cleared in solution of bleaching-powder, at a specific gravityof from 1-075 to i-oio: the padding is done by an engraved roller, and soarranged that only a small quantity of the bleaching-liquor is transferred tothe piece, which is next passed over the steam-chest or drum, and eitherwashed off or finished without washing. The other and better method con-sists in padding the pieces in bleaching-powder solution not quite so strong asthe last, and then passing them through a steam box, in which they remaintwo or three minutes exposed to low pressure steam, and from this passthrough three or four boxes of water to wash them. The only delicate pointin clearing is to hit such a strength of the clearing liquor as shall effectuallyclear the whites without acting too much upon the coloured portion. In lightshades this is not an easy matter, and it is therefore preferable to clear themin the beck, where they can be watched.

The application of chlorine instead of grass bleaching for garancin-dyedgoods was first introduced into France in the year 1847 Messrs. Blech,Steinbach, and Mantz. A very great saving of time and money is theresult, along with a far better finish of the goods. A fadt which could nothave been foreseen, viz., that the dyed portions of the cloth are less readilyand plentifully moistened by water than the white portions, contributes largelyto the proper adtion of the chlorine, which consequently has more effedt uponthe white than upon the coloured parts of the tissue. After the chloring thegoods are ready for being starched and blued, and calendered, as the case mayrequire, and finished for packing. When madder-dyed goods leave the beckthe white portions of the fabric are very much soiled, the colours are flat,without life or brilliancy, and are not quite so fast as is desirable. Theoperations by means of which the beautiful results with which the public isfamiliar are obtained are of a complex nature, and vary for different styles.The reds, lilacs, and purples do not stand equally well the action of the same