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A practical handbook of dyeing and calico-printing / by William Crookes
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TURKEY-RED.

325

small quantity of oxide of tin with the colouring matter, and thereby giving tothe red a fiery-scarlet hue, which is one of the great characteristics of Turkey-reds dyed and well got up.

Among the modifications introduced in the above operations we brieflyquote the following, reminding our readers, at the same time, that almost alldyers of Turkey-red follow processes of their own invention, and keep thesemodes of procedure strictly secret:—M. Haussmann pads the cloth in a mix-ture of olive oil and aluminate of soda, the effect of which is the simultaneityof the oiling and mordanting operations. M. Gastard applies—after everyoiling, drying, and airing operation of the cloth—a nitric acid bath of r'007sp. gr. (exactly 1 per cent of the most concentrated acid), followed by dryingin the open air: he appears to have been induced to this proceeding by theidea of promoting the oxidation of the oil. M. Steiner prepares the cloth,—•that is to say, causes it first to be padded in a solution of an alkaline car-bonate ; next it is put through the oil-bath, and thence it is passed betweenrollers along with two other pieces similarly prepared. On leaving the rollersthe cloth is transferred to a stove-heated ageing-room, where it is placed inthe best possible conditions for the rapid completion of the peculiar conversionof the oil without the necessity of repeating the operation. Very beautifulrose-red colours are obtained by placing previously oiled and feebly mordantedcloths along with Turkey-red pieces in the boiler, wherein the latter are placedfor clearing under pressure. The colouring matter detached during that ope-ration is sufficient to impart to the cloth, prepared as just mentioned, anexcellent and fast shade. For purples it is required to use sheep-dung alongwith the oil-bath, and to employ nitro-sulphate of iron as a mordant. Accordingto Kcechlin the application of nut-galls or sumach is not required if the alum isfirst neutralised. The following may serve as a kind of diagram for the eluci-dation of this operation :—For 1000 kilos, of cotton* are required from 585 to650 kilos, of the peculiar olive oil, 1500 litres of water, and from g to 10 kilos,of carbonate of potassa: after the immersion and working about in the baththe fabric is placed on a heap, in a cool place,f for ten or twelve hours, andnext hung up to dry in a room heated to 60°. These operations are repeatedfrom seven to eight times ; next follows the washing in an aqueous solution ofcarbonate of potassa, consisting in a steeping of the goods during a period oftwenty-four hours, and twice repeated in a solution of carbonate of potassa,sp. gr. i-or4 (containing about 2 per cent of that salt at 15° C.); wringing out,rinsing in cold water, and next padding, at 70°, in a bath made up of 300 litresof a decoction of nut-galls (ro kilos.) and 16 kilos, of alum, quantities whichsuffice for 500 kilos, of cotton ; drying in the stove-heated room at 45°, beinghung up there for two days.

Chalk Bath.—The dyeing is performed with 10 pieces at a time, with from3 to 4-5 kilos, of madder for each piece ; water, from 1500 to 1800 litres : thebath is gradually but regularly heated, during 2j hours, up to the boiling-point,at which it is maintained for a quarter of an hour. After this follows a secondgalling and mordanting, in the same manner just described, and after thatagain a dye-beck precisely similar to the first; followed by the first clearing,>n a boiler under pressure, during eight hours, with 6 kilos, of soap and i - 5

* This may be yarn, since it is very frequently dyed Turkey-red.

’We may briefly point out the peculiar liability of Turkey-reds to spontaneous combustion.