580

DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING.

Garancin is generally employed for full, heavy patterns, and especially forcombinations of black, red, and chocolate; for browns and drabs; black andscarlet; orange and brown, &c. The reason why garancin is seledted in pre-ference for heavy shades is that garancin gives up, practically speaking, thewhole of its colouring matter to the water in the dye-beck, whilst crudemadder yields only a part. Hence the employment of crude madder for heavyshades is costly, as a large excess must be used, which is in great part wasted,if the dregs are not subsequently converted into garanceux. The mordants(“colours,” technically called) for garancin work are used weaker than thoserequired for producing similar shades with madder. From two-thirds to three-fourths of the strength used for madder is sufficient. For further particularsrelative to garancin dyeing the reader is referred to pp. 308, 4g6, and 497.

Garancin is very frequently associated with catechu for the production ofbrowns and brownish-reds. This combination may be brought about in variousways. The second pattern on the previous page is given as a specimen ofthe class of effects produced by this style. The mordants printed on for thisspecimen are iron liquor, at 10° Tw., for the blacks; and for the browns,mixtures of catechu dissolved in water, with sal-ammoniac, acetic acid, anda salt of copper, the latter being added alongwith the thickening. The piecesare then dyed in the garancin-beck and cleared.

Third Style.—Reserved.

This style is an addition to the madder and the garancin styles. In goodsprinted in these styles portions of the design are often left white, and thesespaces are afterwards filled in with a variety of colours, such as green, yellow,or blue, produced and fixed by the steaming process, as described below.

There is also another method of combining madder and garancin work withsteam-colours. There is blocked on the dyed piece a reserve paste, such as

either of the following:—

No. 1. Reserve .—

Lime-juice, at 50° Tw.3J gals.

Caustic soda, at 70° Tw. 2\ ,,

Raise to a boil, and work up in a separate vessel—

Pipe-clay.56 lbs.

Boiling water.3l gals.

And add—

Gum Senegal water (at 6 lbs. per gallon).

Mix the two liquids, and boil for twenty minutes.

No. 2. Reserve .—

Lime-juice, at 6o° Tw. 4 gals.

Caustic soda, at 70° Tw. 3 ,,

Boil and add—

Pipe-clay.48 lbs.

Beat up with—

Boiling water. 2 quarts.

Gum Senegal water (at 6 lbs. per gallon). 4 gals.

Boil the whole for twenty minutes.

No. 1 is used to preserve reds and blacks. No. 2 is used where purples alsooccur.