378
[Class XV.
of the first introduction into France of the taste for thisarticle of dress, and of their first importation from Egypt ,■where undoubtedly they had found their way from theeastern emporium, chiefly through Persia . In England,however, the fashion had been earlier introduced by thoseconnected with the East India Company ’s trade, and theywere included in the periodical sales of prohibited goods,held at the East India House as early as 1750. In 1787,we find they were admitted by our Custom-house, uponpayment of an ad valorem duty of 27^ per cent., whichduty has since been thus changed, by various acts andregulations:—
1812 - - - £81 2 11 per cent.
1313 - - - 62 £ ,,
1814 _ - - 67£ ,,
1825 - - - 30 ,,
1«2 - - -
1846 - - - 5
The severe restrictions upon their importation, andtheir consequent costliness, induced the weavers of Nor-wich to make the first attempt at imitation of the Indian fabric; and we are informed that in 17S4 Mr. Barrowand Alderman Watson, of that town, succeeded in weavingthe first Indian style of shawl we believe ever made inEurope . The process was too slow and unprofitable toinduce them to continue their operations ; but Mr. JohnHarvey, of the same town, followed up the enterprise withPiedmont silk warp and fine worsted shoot, the designsbeing worked in by a process of darning by the hand.No great progress, however, appeal's to have been madein this tedious and expensive process, and not till 1805Mas an entire shawl produced from the loom in Norwich.In Paisley and in Edinburgh they took up the manufac-ture about the same time, but the former town hasalone retained it, making India imitations now of realKashmir wool thread, at very low prices, to a largeextent.
In 1802 a commencement M r as made in Paris ; and it isrelated that the enormous expense of GO,000 francs,expended in setting the loom prepared for the purpose,induced the immortal Jacquard to invent his wonderfulprocess of working intricate designs with facility. In18PJ great success had been reached upon looms a laTire , with Kashmir wool imported for tiie purpose, andspun with great skill in France . Not earlier, however,than 1834 was the present process, called spouline, whichis the exact imitation of the Kastmrirean, so introducedfor working intricate designs that one man, with a Jac-quard loom, can produce the excellence now attained inParis . In fact, we find the true Indian shawl there pro-duced, but perfected by the additiou of machiuery, andsold at about a quarter of the cost in India , their range ofprices being, for squares of full size, 25 to 600 francs,and for long shawls of full size 50 to 1500 francs:4,000,000 francs is given as about the value of the totalproduction of those fabrics in France at the present time;that of Scotland cannot so easily be estimated, but it isvery large, though the shawls are chiefly of a cheaperdescription, ranging from 7s. Cxi. to hi. per square, and1/. to 15/. for long shawls. AVe have dwelt thus at lengthupon the productions of France and England because ofthe greater development of the manufactures in thesecountries, where it had been first introduced : but we findthat M’ithin the last five years Austria , the States of theZollverein , and Belgium have been setting their loomsupon similar produce; and with such excellent materialat command, and such ingenious and industrious artizans,they may soon vie, in cheapness at any rate, with eitherof their predecessors in the trade. There is a peculiarityin the character of a real Kashmir shawl, as well in original-ity of design as in solidity and durability, M'liich, notwith-standing the enormous difference of cost, will retain its valuein the eyes of those who can afford to pay it. The finerdescriptions cannot be purchased in the valley under 300to 1,500 rupees for square, and 450 to 2,000 rupees for long.
Particular Ecmarhs.
IVe find the following number of contributors of thedescriptions called “ woven,” “ printed,” “ embroidered,” !and “ tartans: ”— I
Woven.
Printed.
Embroi-
dered.
Tartans.
_
_
_
15
7
4
6
_
_
_
1
_
_
-
-
-
-
i
1
-
-
-
10
1
3
5
Hamburg
-
-
-
-
i
_
—
_
—
7
2
0
_
_
1
3
_
_
_
-
-
_
_
1
_
-
-
—
_
—
_
1
-
-
-
-
-
-
_
—
—
—
o
1
1
_
_
_
_
5
1
_
_
_
-
-
_
_
o
_
England
-
-
-
12
23
10
29
-
-
-
1
-
-
-
—
—
—
—
—
1
_
Barbary
-
-
-
-
-
1
-
—
—
—
—
—
1
—
Manilla
-
-
—
_
_
_
_
Novia Scotia
_
_
_
_
1
_
_
_
-
_
2
Van Diemen’s Land
“
—
—
“
1
Among whom we proceed to notice those who are most"worthy of remark.
1. Woven Shawls.
The Honourable the East India Company has con-tributed to this Exhibition such a costly and gorgeousdisplay of the very best specimens of every descriptionof manufactures within their dominions, each in its kindso choice and perfect, and of a taste so original, as toafford example to all Europe , that as exhibitors of themost distinguished character we cannot but recommendthat their display should be suitably recognised by HerMajesty’s Commissioners.
There are many articles which do not strictly comeunder the cognizance of our Class, but it lias been con-sidered preferable to combine as much as possible theReport upon this collection of fabrics, rather than scatterthe notices upon each different substance among manyClasses.
We proceed to notice particularly,—
From Kashmir , a square shawl of perfect design andtissue; two long, fine white ones, of beautiful texture,and others (p. 915), presented by Maharajah GolabSingh; some pieces of superior shawl cloths, called kidcloth, and Purrcpuz; this is looped in the weft at theback.
From Indore , shawls and embroideries, and other arti-cles, by Maharajah Rao Scindeah (pp. 915 and 916).
From Puttcalla, shawls, scarfs, and rich tissues, by theRajah of Puttealla.
From Loodiana, shawls for cheapness of price.
From Benares, splendid brocaded shawls and scarfs,from Baboo Deo Nakayn.
From Ahmedabad , the same description of goods.
From Moorshedabad, the same, with some gold prints.
From Madras and Bengal , beautiful embroidered mus-lin scarfs ami shawls, of remarkable texture and eleganttaste.
From Bengal , a very curious white muslin shawl-scarf,worked with gold, in which the turning of the shuttleshows extraordinary skill.
From Dacca , two slurwls, embroidered with gold andsilver needlework ; executed for Her Majesty. Someelegant scarfs, embroidered with coloured silks of Sherry;oriental taste.
From Delhi , some splendid specimens of needlework.
From Ahmedabad , a curious specimen of cloth of gold,worked by hand; exhibited by Mr. Charles Copland.
From Kashmir , a splendid shawl, M'orked in manycolours with gold and silver; exhibited by the Penin-sular and Oriental Steam Company. A very hand-some long shawl, called an Alvandar; exhibited by Mr.John Graham.