[Class XV.
330
XV., p. 500), for cheapness of manufacture and generalexcellence.
Towler, Campin, and Co., Norwich (309, Classes XII.and XV., p. 501), for a very choice collection of longshawls, of different compositions of spun silk and wool.They are of elaborate and original designs, showing supe-rior skill in workmanship, and the highest degree of merita manufacturer can attain. Every improvement is hereadopted without abandoning the distinguished characterof the original Norwich style. We find also printedshawls on a grenadine gauze of great merit, and a squarewith silk worked on cashmere ground, very beautiful.All their productions show great perfection in a schoolpeculiar to this town, and always to be admired, and theyare of the highest degree of merit. We therefore recom-mended a Council Medal to these exhibitors; but it wasnot conceded by the Council of Chairmen.
Zeisel, J. and J., and C. Blumkl, Vienna (320, Austria ,p. 1022), for a collection of shawls, among which a longwhite of woollen warp, and another with four compart- ;inents of elaborate French designs in good taste, made of =Cashmere wool, are worthy of particular remark for ex- Jcellcnce of manufacture. Others of more moderate cost ;are also deserving of great merit, showing much per-fection in the working of their woollen thread.
The Jury make Honourable Mention of the followingExhibitors:—
Bonfils, Souvraz, and Co., 3 Rue des Fosses Mont-martre, Paris (1094, France , p. 1230), for specimens ofshawls of excellent design and manufacture; we point inparticular to a long one with pink ground and orar.gecompartments: a very successful combination, and pos-sessing much novelty.
Cham Bellas', G., and Co., 8 Rue des Fossds Mont-martre, Paris (1140, France , p. 1232), for a collection ofshawls of superior manufacture from Indian wool yam ;in particular a long one of excellent design, and a squarein four compartments, are well worthy of notice.
Chinard, Charles, 9 Rue de Clery, Paris (89, France ,p. 1175), for a collection of shawls of very good make andcareful combination of colours; particularly a new styleof square adapted for summer fashion, differing from theordinary method of weaving.
IIaley, Joir.v, and Sox (58, Classes XII. and XV., !p. 48S), for some peculiarly soft flannel shawls, made ofgoats’ hair, the produce of stock reared by 1I.R.II. Prince Albert in Windsor Park.
IIaydter, Sebastian’, Vienna (311, Austria , p. 1022),for moderate-priced goods, and very creditable specimensof long shawls of good effect, at from 405. to 45s., and ablack square at 24s., which are decidedly cheap.
Marx and Weigert, Berlin (113, Prussia, p. 1054),for a collection of long and square shawls on spun silkwarp, with wool and mixture weft; of good design andvery effective, and of moderate prices.
Opdenhoff and IIartung, Berlin (134, Prussia,p. 1055), for several harness shawls, as well as tartans, ofgood taste and manufacture: their colours are few buteffective, and prices very moderate.
Pix-Bayard, Roubais (682, France , p. 1211), for a col-lection of damask worsted shawls, of peculiarly soft tex-ture and excellent make: when their moderate cost isconsidered we cannot but give him much credit. (PrizeMedal awarded in Class XII.)
Reinhold, W., Vienna (315, Austria , p. 1022), for avariety of long and square shawls of very good taste iucolour and design, and for effective goods at a low price.
Riss, Joseph, Vienna (316, Austria , p. 1022), for shawlsof a low quality, presenting them solely for merit as tocheapness.
Roxburgh, John and Andrew, Paisley (296, ClassesXII. and XV., p. 500), for specimens of woven shawls,of good designs; also shawls made on spun silk warp, inwhich an ingenious advantage is taken of short reedingin design, which reduces the expense of production.
Sabin, Rebeyre, Lyons, for a good assortment of cra-vats, scarfs, square and long shawls, of good colouringand design, chiefly suited to a large consumption at lowprices.
2. Shawls of Barege, Crape, Gauze, Silk , and otherDescriptions.
General Remarks.
The rapid progress in the manufacture of shawls, andthe increasing taste and demand for this style of garment,has led to the introduction of many kinds of lighterfabrics, in either wool, silk, goats’ hair, or the variouscombinations of these with other materials, such as cotton,spun silk, &c.
These descriptions arc generally traded in under thefollowing denominations:—
Crapes , made of silk, in imitation of Chinese fabrics;chiefly manufactured at Norwich and Lyons.
Bar&ge, made of wool, an improved imitation of shawlsmade in the Pyrenees , by the peasantry of a place sonamed; remarkable for their lightness, elasticity, andstrength.
Another sort, with silk warp, and with a check of silk;a new introduction for increasing the effect of printing.
Grenadines, made of silk of a peculiar twist, whichgives hardness and durability, but at the expense ofbrightness.
Levantines and Albanians, made of silk and spun silk,in imitation of the scarfs from various parts of the Medi-terranean.
Chenille, a novel application of silk, sometimes withcotton.
Chine, a printed warp before weaving.
The trade in these articles has already in a few yearsbecome most important, giving employment to an immensenumber of artisans in various branches besides those ofspinning and weaving, such as designers, carvers, chemi-cal colourists, and dyers.
Iu the perfection of these goods, France has taken thelead, and to her early encouragement of schools of design,and well-known national taste, may be attributed the toneand fashion she has given to all Europe ; hut her work ismore expensive than that of England, and large quantitiesof these goods are brought over to be printed here at thelower cost, which the greater division of labour and themore extended development of the trade lias accom-plished.
In these printed articles, Austria shows evidences of anactive endeavour to produce imitations of the designs ofFrance .
In the exhibition by the States of the Zollverein wealso perceive the foundation of a future trade in thesefabrics.
Particular Remarks.
The Jury award Prize Medals to the following Exhibi-tors in this department:—
Chocqukel, Felix, Paris (1148, France , p. 1233\ forgreat excellence in the printing of light shawls. For along time foreman to his brother, he lias acquired muchof his perfection. We point especially to a long whiteshawl of elaborate design, the cutting and printing ofwhich prove him to be a manufacturer of great merit.
Chocqueei., Louis, Labrieht, near ijt. Denis (90,France , p. 1175), for a collection of printed shawls, onbarege, eachemire dVcosse, and other fancy goods, ofgreat excellence in design, harmony of colours, and per-fection of printing, which is conspicuous in the greatclearness of his white grounds, the whole being of thevery highest merit. Medal awarded in Class XVIII.
Glen and McIndoe, Glasgow (279, Classes XII. andXV., p. 499), for the economical execution of the printedshawls exhibited by Messrs. Keith, Shoobridge, and Co.
Keith, Shoobridge, and Co., 124, Wood Street, Lon don (279, Classes XII. and XV., p. 499\ for a large col-lection of printed shawls, scarfs, and mufflers, of excellentdesign and execution. They are deserving of merit for thegoods they have made up on their own designs. But toGlen and McIndoe, Glasgow , their printers, we considermuch credit to be due, for the execution of the detail,which for colour and neatness is very remarkable.
Swaisland, C., Crayford, Kent (283, Classes XII.and XV.. p. 500), for goods that prove him to lx? a printerof the very first class. We point especially to on elubo-