33 !

TARTAN PLAIDS, SHAWLS, SCARFS—AWARDS.

trace its introduction into the British isles, and into Scot­ land in particular, where it has so long remained thewell-known national costume, giving a name to its pecu-liar style that is universally adopted in every part of theworld where the manufacture is produced or traded in.Great difficulty has been found in the derivation of theword Tartan : it does not appear in Gaelic , nor was itused in the Highlands, where the word Breachan was itsequivalent, until the sixteenth century. The ancientbards invariably used the word Breach or Breachan inScotland , Brycan in Wales , and Breacan in Ireland , wherethe dress prevailed from very early times. A woollenfabric of this description appears to be clearly traced fromthe northern tribes of Europe , very far east. In Russia ,and among the Calmucks, it is common to this day; inBurmali, the chequered design, although mostly in silk,is the common dress of the country. There are strongevidences of its having been of Scythian wear; it may befanciful to trace Tartan to Tartaric origin, but it iscurious to find the Arabic word Berkun meaning “ party-coloured.’-* Livy describes the party-coloured woollencloths of the Gauls , Germans , and Goths . Pliny , again, ;states that the dress of the Gauls was woven in squaresof party-coloured fine wool. Dio, writing in the thirdcentury, describes the Britons in cloths of divers colours,which were called by their bards ‘‘Breach,” or “Brea-chan.” There is no record of their having been the dis-tinctive dress of the clans of Scotland before the six-teenth century; but in a chartulary of Aberdeen, in12G9, the canons of the Church forbid the clergy to wearthe party-coloured garments under the name of Tyre-tains. This word was brought into use from Normandy in the eleventh -century, and may very probably be theorigin of the word Tartan , for it is frequently used inreference to these woollen cloths of many colours. Inthe fifteenth century the records of the Royal Wardrobegive an item of expenditure, describing the colours ofthese Tyretaines. In 1570 an ancient Scottish manu-script gives a list of the colours of the plaids of the dif-ferent elans. In 1717 the wearing of this distinctivedress was prohibited by Act of Parliament, and the greyshepherds’ mauds were made instead. This Act was,however, repealed in 1782, but the fashion was notactively revived until very lately. The visit of George IV. to Scotland , in 1822, gave the first impulse to thisrevival, and in the neighbourhood of Stirling fancy plaidshawls began to be made. In 1828 clan Tartan shawls,long and square, became very popular. The Galashielsweavers took up the trade very actively, and from thatperiod the consumption has each year been greatly onthe increase. Paisley opened extensive manufactoriesabout eight years ago, which now throw off a vast quan-tity. The example of that town was quickly followed byFrance , Belgium , many parts of Germany , Austria , andBohemia ; and in 1849 a very extensive concern wasopened in Massachusetts , North America , for the produc-tion of this fabric from native wool, which has givenevidence of excellence that will compare with any othercountry. We find also a specimen from Canada ; but inthis article it will probably be long before Scotland canbe surpassed in design, fabric, or cheapness.

Particular Remarks.

Morgan*, John, and Co., Paisley (299, Classes XII.and XV., p. SO), have a very handsome collection oftartans of very superior make; but, as already stated, I

[Class XV.

they arc not under consideration for distinction in conse-quence of Mr. Morgan being a member of the Jury.

The Jury award Prize Medals to the following Exhibitors in this department:—

Cross, William, G2 Queen Street, Glasgow (202,Classes XII. and XV., p. 500), for tartans of fine Indianwool, of superior make, the colours excellent, and thetissue perfect.

Kkru and Scott, 31 and 32 St. Paul’s Churchyard,London (275, Classes XII. and XV., p. 499), for a varietyof tartans of the very best description, manufactured byRobert Kerr, the beauty of whose fabrics has alreadybeen fully appreciated by this Jury.

Lawrence, Stone, and Co., Boston , United States (464, United States , p. 1464), for a few tartans of excel-lent manufacture, fine in texture and bright in colours.They are made from native wool, and show much excel-lence as the produce of a manufactory only three years atwork, but estimated to turn out this year 5,000,000 pieces.This concern, from its rising importance, is considered tobe of decided merit.

Lees, R. and G., Galashiels, Scotland (192, ClassesXII. and XV., p. 495), present such perfect specimens oftheir manufacture that we cannot but consider them asmakers of the highest merit, and fully entitled to thePrize Medal.

t Patox, J. and D., Tillicoultry, Scotland (466, ClassesXII. and XV., p. 501), for a collection of tartans remark-able for their fineness and softness of texture, for theexcellence and variety of their colours, and perfection ofmake.

Sanderson, R. and A., and Co., Galashiels, Scotland (196, Classes XII. and XV., p. 495), for an excellent col-lection of tartans; their mauds, or shepherds’ checks, areparticularly worthy of notice.

Van der Beeck, J. C., Dusseldorf (Prussia, 494,p. 1079), for a collection of fancy tartans, with ends bro-caded, of peculiar style. The taste and execution areboth superior; and, with reference to moderate price, thismanufacture is considered to possess a decided merit.

The Jury make Honourable Mention of the followingExhibitors;—

IIaarhaus, J. C., Sons, Elberfeld (567, Prussia,p. 10S2), for a good collection of medium-priced tartans,well made and of good colours. They are extensivemanufacturers.

Holms, William, and Brothers, 7 St. Mirren’s Street,Paisley (288, Casses XII. and XV., p. 500), for a com-plete collection of clan tartans, sixty-two in number, gotup with great care, of excellent colours.

Wilson and Son, Bannockburn (468, Classes XII. andXV., p. 501), for a collection of clan tartans, fifty-eightin number, of good colours and strong manufacture.They well merit Honourable Mention.

In presenting this our Report upon Class XV., we have,in the faithful execution of our trust, unanimously de-cided that among the beautiful and elaborately-madetextures which have come under our examination suchperfection of various kinds of merit has been found, thataccording to our inteq)retation of the instructions of theCouncil of Chairmen we could not do otherwise thaurecommend those Exhibitors who have presented a com-bination of such different merits as are unquestionablypre-eminent in their class, and therefore entitled to theCouncil Medal, which we trust will be confirmed.

London , July 1851.

WILLIAM PEINSEP, Reporter.