Class XIX.] BOBBIN-NET MACHINERY — APPLICATION OF IT TO THE JACQUARD.

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machine and then by another, was astonishing, each dis-covery leading the May to something more novel. Atthis period, also, a patent was taken out by 'WilliamSneath, of Hyson Green, and sold to James Fisher, Esq.,of Radford, for spotting on the circular machine; soonafter another was taken out by Mr. Freeman, of Tewkes-bury , for spotting on the traverse warp ; and shortly aftera third by R. Birkin, of Basford, for the same thing onthe Leaver machine.

Many efforts were made by Draper, and others, to applythe Jacquard machine to the bobbin-net for the purposeof ornament. Several patents had been taken out forthis purpose, but no successful arrangement had beeneffected till about 1839, when a pusher machine wasworked with cards the width of the net, by Mr. Wright,of Radford: the same application was made to the circu-lar machine by Mr. Crofts, who has taken out severalpatents for various improvements in nearly every descrip-tion of bobbin-net machinery.

The application of the Jacquard still progressed slowlytill 1841, when a plan discovered by llootou Deverill wasbought and patented by Messrs. Biddle and Birkin, forapplying the Jacquard to the guide bare; and so rapidhas been the application of the Jacquard since thatperiod, that at the present time there is scarcely amachine at work without it (except those adapted pur-posely for plain net), either applied to the hare, or alongthe width of the machine, and from that period the tradecommenced anew, producing every description of patternon all the various descriptions of net known, particularlyon the plain-net, that had been made and patented in1838 by Mr. Crofts, but was not extensively manufac-tured till the successful application of the Jacquard.Such an impetus did the trade receive from this, thathundreds of machines which were useless, or “ workedup,” as the trade termed them, were brought iuto activeand profitable use ; many of their owners, after spendingfrom 80/. to 100/., being able to realize this outlay inthree or four weeks (if put on with a saleable pattern).No sooner was the Jacquard machine successfully adaptedto the bobbin-net machine, than new sources of manufac-ture gradually developed themselves, such as flounces,scarfs, shawls, window-curtaius, &c., &c.; but, to suc-ceed in these articles, tasteful and elaborate patterns M ererequired, equal to the French and other foreign produc-tions of the same kind: manufacturers had in mauyinstances to resort to those places for designs. This wantof clever local designers caused the same anxiety to bemanifested by the makers of machine-made lace thatother manufacturing districts had evinced; and the samecordial assistauce from the Government was afforded inestablishing a school of design in Nottingham .

Though many for the first two or three years thoughtthis school comparatively useless, it lias proved that itwas only sowing the seeds for extended usefulness, asseveral young men, that have had no other means oflearning designing, and creating a taste for the fine arts,are uow filling important situations, and receiving liberalsalaries; aud there is no doubt that at the present timeour local artists are capable of producing designs equal tothe French , Swiss, &c.

We may be told, the display of lace goods in the GreatExhibition does not demoustrate this statement; but itmust be borne in mind that the manufacturer of machine-made lace has to have his patterns adapted to suit thevarious markets; and they know from experience, thatpatterns that would suit the French would not be saleableto any large extent in the English market (aud English -made lace being prohibited iu the French market, it isuseless to adapt our patterns to. their taste''. Iu fact,there requires one style for the London market, anotherfor the provinces; one for North America , a different onefor Soutli America, and so of all the various markets toMhicli we export our produce.

It will, therefore, be perceived, that the French arerarely employed in designing, except for the Parisiantaste, where our designers have to suit the tastes of nearlyall the markets in the world.

Judging, therefore, from the beautiful patterns nowproduced, their suitability to the markets for which they

are specially designed, and the rapid manner in whichthis part of the trade has extended, Me think it right tostate here that the Government School of Design liasmaterially assisted the enterprising manufacturer andartisan.

At the present time, amongst the infinite variety ofarticles manufactured by the bobbin-net machines, are—

1st. Black silk piece net ornamented, shawls, scarfs,flounces, trimming laces, blondes in white and colours,some wholly finished on the machines, others partly bymachinery, and embroidered afterwards.

(Up to 1845, Saxony exported largely the lower classof these, and France the more expensive into this country ;but so perfect are they made, so much improved in design,so effective for useful purposes, and louver by from 75 to90 per cent, than the class of hand-inade articles theyrepresent, that we not only supply our home market, buthave exported 150,000/. worth annually, during the lastfour years, to foreign markets, principally the American ,and not a few find their M-ay into France , although whollyprohibited by that country.)

2ud. Cotton edgings, laces, aud insertions, linen lacesin imitation of white pillow lace, muslin edging andlaces, fancy piece net, spotted net, plait net, iu imitationof the costly Valenciennes lace.

3rd. The third class is of curtains in imitation of theSwiss curtains, bed-covers, and bliuds ; and although thisbranch of trade is neM-, having only been introduced in1846, yet from the extent it has already attained, em-ploying above 100 machines, and from the display ofgoods exhibited, excellent iu design and good in texture,it promises not only to be an important but an improvingdepartment of the lace trade.

4th. The fourth class includes silk and cottou, plainnet Mechlin grounds, blonde, Brussels , or extra twist:this is a branch of much importance, employing regularlyupM-ards of 2,000 machines; one owner, J. lleatheoat,Esq., M.P., having 300, principally making silk net, orParis blonde. To this gentleman the trade omcs muchfor his zeal and perseverance in discovering the methodof imparting that dress or finish to his nets, formerlyknown only to the French , and the accomplishment ofwhich is now giving permanent employment to mauythousands of workpeople.

The numerous and various specimens of Nottingham manufactures in the Great Exhibition , their generallyuseful character and extraordinary cheapness, combinedwith very considerable taste in design and excellence inexecution, must tend to still further develop the ingenuityand extend the trade of the locality.

The description of machines at present in use are thefollowing:—

1st. The “Leavers,” so called after John Leavers, theoriginal constructor of this machine; a specimen of Mhicli,belonging to Mr. Birkin of Nottingham , is at work inthe Exhibition.

Most of the articles included in the first and secondclass productions are made from this description of ma-chinery.

2nd. The “ Pusher” machine, so called from havingindependent pushers to propel the bobbins and carriagesfrom front to back, instead of pulling or hooking them,as in other arrangements.

From this description of machine are made sIktwIp,scarfs, flounces, &c., of a superior quality, M hicli requireto have the pattern traced afterwards m ith a thick threadby women.

3rd. The “ Circular” so called from bolts or combson which the carriages pass being made circular, insteadof straight, as iu the straight-bolt machines, originallyconstructed by Mr. Morley, of Derby (late of Notting-ham ). From these machines are made the curtains men-tioned in Class III., and the various descriptions of plain,spotted, and fancy nets.

4th. A few 'Traverse W'arp Machines” so calledfrom the warp “traversing” instead of the carriages, asiu the circular and pusher machines. These machinesprincipally make spotted lace, blond edgings, and imita-tion thread laces.

There is a smaller number of machines noM- than in