4G8
[Class XFX.
of the most beautiful laces; in proof of which the articlesexhibited by Messrs. Duhayon-Brunfaut and Co., ofBrussels and Ypres , may be more particularly referred to,as also those of other exhibitors. The laces chiefly manu-factured are termed Brussels , Mechlin, Valenciennes, and(irainmont laces.
I. “Brussels 1 ' produces two different descriptions oflace, known as “ Point a l’aiguille,” and “Brussels plait.”
The former is made entirely with the needle, the latteris made on the pillow, and “ Iloniton lace” very muchresembles it.
The finest and most expensive kind is made of veryfine flax thread, and some of cotton. Formerly the laceswere made only on the “ real ground,” which is made onthe pillow in narrow widths of from 1 to 3 inches, andthen joined with such admirable ingenuity as to beimperceptible.
It is of the most beautiful description, being remarkablysoft and clear, but so costly as to be within the reach ofcomparatively few persons Hence it was only ■worn atCourt , and by the most wealthy.
Trimming lace of 4 inches wide varied in price fromfour to ten guineas per yard: veils, from twenty-five toone hundred guineas each, and other articles were pro-portionately expensive; but recently, owing to the greatimprovement which has been effected by eminent housesin the town of Nottingham (England), in producing avery superior net by machinery, the lace is now manu-factured at a much less cost: the flowers or designs beingmade by hand, and afterwards sewed on to the “ machine-made ” net. This description of lace is known by theterm “application of Brussels, ” and its resemblance tothe Brussels point lace is so striking as frequently todeceive those who possess a good knowledge of lace.
“Brussels plait” is in considerable use in France ,Spain , Russia , and other countries, and is made of mostexquisite quality.
The “Point a Paiguille” is more worn in England;and since the great improvements which have been madein producing this beautiful lace at so considerable a re-duction in price, the demand for it has become verygeneral, and it is now worn by nearly all ladies of rankand fashion.
In the manufacture of Brussels lace several classes ofworkers are employed, as follows:—1. Those who makethe flowers in plait. 2. In point. 3. The real ground.4. The ground in the flowers. 5. The attaelieuses (fast-eners). 6. Those who apply on the net. 7. Those whowork the point, and the new kind of real Brussels , &c.(the “ gase point
With the exception of the point d’Alengon (made in thenorth of France ), Brussels produces the most valuable lacethat is known.
II. Mechlin laces are made at Malines , Antwerp , andin the vicinity, and are of the lightest and most beautifultexture. They are all made in one piece on the pillow,and their peculiarity consists in a plait thread surround-ing the flowers, ami designing the outline, so as to givethe appearance of embroidery. This manufacture hassuffered very much from the caprice of fashion.
III. Valenciennes laces are made chiefly in the fol-lowing towns, and the surrounding villages, viz., Ypres ,Menin, Courtrai , Bruges , Ghent , and Alost.
Although all made in the same manner on the pillow,yet the productions of the various towns named are socharacteristic, that a person accustomed to examine them,will readily distinguish where each piece of lace wasmade.
1. Ypres excels particularly in laces of the finest squaregrounds, of the widest and most expensive description,varying in price from Gd. to 50/. the English yard. Thisbranch of industry was commenced at Ypres about 1656;and according to a census made by Louis XIV. in 1084,there was then one lace manufacturer, and G3 workersemployed. It is only since 1835, that its trade has beenso considerably developed: and now it is estimated thatthe lace-dealers of Ypres purchase the produce of about20,000 workers living in the town and its environs.
The bulk of the lace manufactured here is exported,principally to England, France , and Germany , and a trade
has been opened with the United States ; but a greatbarrier to its increasing development exists in thegreatly-varying duties levied upon lace by differentcountries.
2. Menin provides employment for about 2,000 or3,000 workers.
3. Bruges . The manufacture in tins town has im-mensely increased, and a considerable trade is nowcarried on. The laces here are of a good, useful quality,suitable for trimmings, and are much sought after byEnglish buyers ; but the number of persons engaged herein the making of lace is not so large as in Ypres.
4. Ghent . The fabric of this place is extremely good,and laces of all qualities are produced, principally con-sisting of the narrow and medium widths, employing intheir manufacture about 10,000 or 12,000 persons.
5. Alost possesses very excellent workers; but thedesigns are not equal to those of Ypres , and the colourof the laces is inferior.
IV. In the village of Grammont great improvementshave been made in white-thread lace, also in black pointtrimming laces.
Recently, the manufacture of piece-goods, as shawls,scarfs, bertiies, &c., has been commenced, and is carriedon with great success. The quality and designs are notequal to those of France , but the prices are much lower,and these productions are now in considerable demand.
A Council Medal lias been awarded to Ball, Duxxi-cliffe, and Co., Nottingham (19, p. 560), for velvet andSimla lace; being new patented fabrics, suitable forshawls, dresses, and for various ornamental and usefulpurposes, aud of commercial importance. Also imitationValenciennes, aud white and black point tulle, of greatmerit.
The Jury award prize Medals to the following:—
Ayers, W., Newport Pagnell, Bucks (388, p. 573), forspecimens of wide thread-lace of good useful quality.
Clarke, Esther, Loudon (130, p. 565 \ for a Ilonitonlace flounce, of which the design aud quality are unequal-led in its class.
Fishers and Robinson, Nottingham (2, p. 559), forimitation of Valenciennes laces, black trimming laces,and patent spot-nets, all possessing merit as machine-finished goods; also two tamboured net shawls, witha variety of excellent black Jacquard laces and shawls ofsuperior merit.
Forrest, James and Soxs, Dublin (45, p. 561), forjaeket-flouncings, scarf, berthe, and handkerchief, inimitation of old Spanish point, with specimens of Lime-rick lace. The whole unequalled in their class.
Greasley aud IIopcroft, Nottingham (34, p. 561),for very superior Jacquard shawl: also flouncings andfalls, together with some needlework-shawls well exe-cuted, and truthful imitations of real lace.
Groucock, Copestakk, Moore and Co., London (3,p. 559-60), for Iloniton guipure half-shawl, flouncings, lap-pet, and trimming-lace, of excellent design and manufac-ture. Double-flounced dress, with court train, tambouredon tine Brussels net, elaborately worked and well designed.Very wide Buckinghamshire lace of fine quality. Em-broidered muslin low and high chemisettes, collars, cuffs,trimmings, &c., of superior work.
Heald, B., Nottingham (269, p. 570), designer, forpastern for broad lace flounce, evincing good taste audsuitability of design.
Heymaxx and Alexander, Nottingham (25, p. 560),for machine-made lace curtains in great variety ; also,plain and fancy nets, remarkable for cheapness andutility.
Howell, James, and Co., London (5, p. 560), forguipure Iloniton lace shawl and mantle of very excellentmanufacture.
Lambert and Bl*ry, London (4, p. 5G0), for Limericklace shawl and tunic dress.
Lester, T., Bedford (236, p. 568), for wide white andblack lace.