Chap. VIII.
S19
200 feet; its quality is soft, and its temperature higher than that obtained from ordinarywells.
Docks and slips have been constructed upon the best principles, and a sea-wall, foundedupon a solid bed, is built along the entire frontage.
After quitting the Thames , and continuing on the line of coast northward, we arrive atthe river Crouch, which has left many deltas; one of these, called Foulness, advances con-siderably into the sea ; the river itself is navigable for more than eleven miles.
Ten miles north of the Crouch lies Blackwater Bay, into which the Chelmar and othersmall streams empty themselves; some years ago the Chelmar was made navigable forsmall vessels to Chelmsford; the Colne carries small craft to Wivenhoe and Colchester ,which are employed in the oyster trade.
One of the streams which pour forth their waters into this spacious bay is the Idumanum,on which Maldon is situated.
Fifteen miles farther north is another bay, into which fall the Stour and Orwell ; bothare of a considerable width at their mouth, and the first is navigable for 28 miles toSudbury, where the Flemings established a manufactory for cloth in the fourteenth cen-tury.
Harwich , a populous sea-port and a market town, is situated at the north-east extremityof Essex , on a point of land bounded on the east by the sea, and on the north by theestuaries of the Stour and Orwell. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in ship-building,and vessels of considerable burthen have been launched from the convenient yards establishedhere. The harbour is deep and spacious, and the anchorage good. More than 100sail of the line and 400 colliers are reported to have been seen riding in safety at onetime.
Numerous vessels are fitted out from this port engaged in the fishery trade, and there isa constant communication between it and the ports of Holland and Germany .
On the south side of Harwich the cliff’ which divides Orwell haven from the bay con-tains a stratum of a blue clay, about a foot in thickness, on which is another of the samethickness, of stone, containing numerous fossils.
Immediately opposite to Harwich, and at the south-east extremity of Suffolk, is a strongfortification, called Langard Fort; it is built upon a point of land united to Walton Colness,except at the time of high water, when it becomes an island, nearly a mile distant from theshore.
'Hie Orwell is navigable to Ipswich, but the port is still much silted up, although in thereign of George III . an act of parliament was obtained to improve the course up to Stow-market.
The Deben discharges itself at Felix Stow, north of Harwich Bay, and is navigable toWoodbridge, a distance of ten miles.
Orfordy situated on the confluence of the Aide and Ore, was once a place of considerableimportance : the keep of the ancient castle remains; its plan is polygonal, having 18 sidesdescribed within a circle whose radius is 27 feet; three square towers, placed around it atequal distances, flank the walls, each measuring about 22 feet in width, projectimg 12 feet,and 90 feet high. The walls at the base a^e 20 feet in thickness ; the whole is surroundedby ditches, and was formerly by a circular wall 40 or 50 feet in height; this Norman castleis chiefly built of Caen stone.
The decline of the town is ascribed to the loss of its harbour, occasioned by the barthrown up, at the mouth, which has caused the sea to retire altogether. The accumulationsof sand on this coast have also destroyed the importance that Aldborough once possessed,which is situated on the same river.
Southwold , on an eminence overlooking the German Ocean, is nearly surrounded onevery side by the river Blith, which here discharges itself into the sea. The herringfishery once contributed to its wealth and importance. About the middle of the lastcentury a pier was erected on the north side of the port, and a few years afterwards anotheron the south. Two docks were also laid down by the Free British fishery, and numerousmagazines for depositing stores were constructed.
Southwold Bay, or Sole Bav, as it is commonly called, was rendered celebrated in 1672,by the action fought in it between the combined fleets of England and France against theDutch , commanded by De Ruyter .
Lowestoft is situated on the easternmost part of the English coast, upon a lofty eminencecommanding a fine view over the German Ocean ; and near the edge of the cliff, north ofthe town, stands the upper lighthouse, erected in 1676, which is a circular tower of brick,40 feet in height, and 20 in diameter. This lighthouse originally had its upper story orchamber glazed all round, and within was kept burning a coal fire, which was visible atnight for a great distance at sea. In 1778 the brethren of the Trinity House altered thisarrangement, and erected at the summit one of the newly contrived cylindrical lanterns.
Another lighthouse, of timber, is placed below, so that vessels coming into Lowestoft roads are directed to the Stanford Channel, which lies between the Holme and Barnard