136

HISTORY OF LACE.

by the clergy, as were the “ hennins,” in the time of Charles YI.;but the most probable story is that which relates how in October1699 Louis XIY. simply observed, “Cette coiffure lui paroissoitdesagreahle.” The ladies worked all night, and next evening, atthe Duchess of Burgundy’s reception, 21 appeared for the first timein a low head-dress. Fashion, 22 which the author of the beforequoted “ Consolation ” would call “ pompeux,” w r as “ aujourd’huien reforme.” Louis XIV. never appreciated the sacrifice; to theday of his death he persisted in saying, “ J’ai eu beau crier contreles coiffures trop hautes.” No one showed the slightest desire tolower them till one day there arrived “ une inconnue, une guenilled’Angleterre ” (Lady Sandwich, the English ambassadress!!),“ avec une petite coiffure basse—tout d’un coup, toutes lesprincesses vont d’une extremite a l’autre.” 23 Be the accusationtrue or not, the “ Mercure ” of November 1699 announces that“ la hauteur des anciennes coiffures commence a paroitre ridicule.”

In these days lace was not confined to Versailles and thecourt. 24

“ Le gentilhomme,” writes Capefigue, “ allait au feu en man-chettes poudre a la mareehale, les eaux de senteur sur son mouchoiren point d’Angleterre, l’elegance n’a jamais fait tort au courage,et la politesse s’allie noblement a la bravoure.” And Capefigue isright; for who rallied more nobly round the throne than did theFrench gallants of that luxurious century?

But war brings destruction to laces as w r ell as finances, and, in1690, the loyal and noble army was found, alas! in rags. Thenwrites Dangeau: “ 31. de Castanaga, a qui 31. de Maine et 31. deLuxembourg avoient demande un passeport pour faire venir desdentelles a l’armee, a refuse le passeport, mais il a envoye desmarchands qui ont porte pour dix mille ecus de dentelles, et apresqu’on les eut achetdes, les marchands s’en retournerent sansvouloir prendre d’argent, disant qu’ils avoient cet ordre de 31. deCastanaga.”

“J’avois une Steinekerque de 3Ialines,” writes the Abbe deChoisy, who always dressed in female attire. We hear a great

21 “ Galerie de 1’ancienne Cour.” 23 “ Corr. de la Duchesse d’Orle'ans,

22 “ 1699. Oct. Le Vendredi 25, il y Princesse Palatine, mere du Regent.”eut grande toilette chez Madame la 24 Speaking of the Iron Mask, VoltaireDuehesse de Bourgogne oh les dames writes:—“ His greatest passion was forparurent, pour la premiere fois, en linen of great fineness and for lace.”—coiffures d’une forme nouvelle, e’est h dire Siecle de Louis XIV.

beaucoup plus basses.”— Mercure Galant.