LOUIS XIV.

137

(leal about these Steinkirks at the end of the seventeenth century.It was a twisted lace necktie, and owed its origin to the battle ofthat name in 1692, 25 when the young French princes of the bloodwere suddenly ordered into action. Hastily tying their lacecravats—in peaceful times a most elaborate proceeding—theyrushed to the charge, and gained the day. In honour of thisevent, both ladies and cavaliers wore their handkerchiefs knottedor twisted in this careless fashion.

“ Je trouve qu’en etc le Steinkerque est commode,

J’aime le falbala, 28 quoiqu’il soit critique,”

says somebody. Steinkirks became the rage, and held good formany years, worn alike in England 27 and France by the womenand the men. Fig. 69 represents the grand dauphin in his “ longueSteinkerque It replis tortueux;” 28 Fig. 70, the Uuchesse du Lude 29in similar costume and high fontange, both copied from prints ofthe time.

We must now allude to the prettiest fashion of the reign, alace ruffle to the ladies’ sleeves, concerning the wearing of which“ a deux rangs,” or “ a trois rangs,” there was much etiquette.We find constant mention of these in the fashion-books andinventories of the time.

“ Les manches plates se font de deux tiers de tour, avec unedentelle de fil de point fort fin et fort haut. On nomme cesRanches Engageantes.” 30

25 Fought by Marshal Luxembourg—rieux tapissier de Notre-Dame—againstWilliam of Orange.

28 Falbala,—a deep single flounce ofpoint or gold lace. The “MercureGalant,” 1698, describing the Duchess ofBurgundy “ k la promenade,” states:‘ Elle avoit un habit gris de lin enfalbala, tout garny de dentelles d’argent.”

“ Femme de qualite en Steinkerke etFalbala.” — EngraHng of 1693.

27 See “ England.—William III.”

28 Kegnard.

28 Dame du palais to Queen MarioIherese, and afterwards first lady of

honour to the Duchess of Burgundy.She died 1726.

>0 “ Mercure Galant,” 1683.

Again, in 1688, he says: “Les pointsde Malines eont fort en regne pour lesmanches qu’on nomme engageantes. Ony met des points tres-hauts, fort plisses,avec des pieds.”

They appear to have been soon intro-duced into England, for Evelyn, in his“ Mundus Muliebris,” 1690, says: “ Abouther sleeves are engageantsand tho“ Ladies’ Dictionary ” of nearly the samedate gives : “ ^Engageants, double rufflesthat fall over the wrist.”

In the lace bills of Queen Mary II., we find— *•

“ 1694. 1J yd. Point for a broad pair of Engageants, at £5 10s. 9 12 6

31 for a double pair of ditto, at £5 10s.® ®

1 pair of Point Engageants . . 30 0 0

(B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.)