272
HISTORY OF LACE.
any manner of request in the Queen’s Majesty’s name.” His ladywife is to get one privately, without the knowledge coming to thequeen mother’s ears, “ as she does not want to be beholden to her.”
It is not to be wondered at, then, that the New Year’s giftsand great wardrobe accounts 48 teem with entries of “ doublets ofpeche satten all over covered with cutwork and lyned with a laceof Yenyse gold, 49 kyrtells of white satten embroidered with purlesof gold-like clouds, and layed round about with a bone lace ofYenys gold.” 60 This gold lace appears upon her petticoats every-where varied by bone lace of Venice silver. 51
That the queen drew much fine thread point from the samelocality, her portraits testify, especially that preserved in theroyal gallery of Gripsholm, in Sweden, once the property of herill-fated admirer, Eric XIV. She wears a ruff, cuffs, tucker,and apron of geometric lace, of exquisite fineness, stained of a palecitron colour, similar to the liquid invented by Mrs. Turner, ofOverbury memory, or, maybe, adopted from the saffron-tintedsmocks of the Irish, the wearingof which she herself had prohibited.We find among her entries laces of Jean 52 and Spanish lace ; shedid not even disdain bone lace of copper, and copper and silver at18d. the ounce. 63 Some of her furnishers are English. OneWylliam Bowll supplies the queen with “lace of crowne purle.” 64Of her “ sylkwoman,” Alice Mountague, she has bone lace wroughtwith silver and spangles, sold by the owner at nine shillings. 56
The queen’s smocks are entered as wrought with black work and
48 “ A mantel of lawn cutwork wroughtthroughout with cutwork of ‘pomegra-nettes, roses, honeysuckles, cum crowns.’ ”
“ A doublet of lawn cutwork workedwith ‘ lez rolls and true loves,’ ” &c.—G. TV. A. Eliz., last year.
48 “ New Year’s Gifts. By the LadyShandowes.” 1577-8.
50 Marquis of Northampton.
51 Lady Carew. “ A cushyn of finecameryk edged with bone lace of Venicesylver.”
82 “ Lnqueusdo serico Jeano.”— G. TV.A. Eliz. 30-31.
53 1571. “ Bevels at Court.” Cun-
ningham.
Some curious entries occur on the occa-sion of a masque called “ The Prince ”given at court, in 1GOO
*• For the tooth-drawer:
44 To loope leace for his doublet andcassacke, 8s.
“ For leaceforthecome-cutters suite,7*.
“ For green leace for the tinkers suite,28 .
“ For the mouse-trapp-man:
“ 6 yards of copper leace to leace itcloake, at Is. 8d., 10s.
“ The Prophet merely wears fringe,2 Buffos and cufifes, 3s. lOd.”
The subject of the masque seems lostto posterity.
34 Lady Chandos, jun. “ A cushyncloth of lawne, wrought with white workeof branches and trees edged with whitebone worke wrought with crownes.”New Year’s Gifts, 1577-8.
35 1572. “Bevels at Court.”