QUEEN ELIZABETH.

273

edged with bone lace of gold of various kinds. We have ourselvesseen a smock said to have been transmitted as an heirloom in onefamily from generation to generation. 66 It is of linen cloth em-broidered in red silk, with her favourite pattern of oak-leaves andbutterflies (Fig. 109). Many entries of these articles, besides thatof Sir Philip Sidney’s, appear among the New Year’s gifts. 67

It was then the custom for the sponsors to give “ christeningshirts,” with little bands and cuffs edged with laces of gold andvarious kinds—a relic of the ancient custom of presenting whiteclothes to the neophytes when converted to Christianity. 68 The“ bearing cloth,” as the mantle used to cover the child whencarried to baptism was called, 69 was also richly trimmed with lace

Fig. 109.

Quetn Elizabeth's smock.

and cutwork, and the Tree of Knowledge, the Holy Dove (big.110), or the Flowerpot of the Annunciation (Fig. Ill), was workedin “ hollie-work ” on the crown of the infant’s cap or “ biggin.”

30 In the possession of Mrs. Evans, ofWimbledon.

57 “ Sir Gawine Carew. A smock ofcameryke wrought with black work andedged with bone lace of gold.”

“ Lady Souehe. A smock of came-ryke, the ruffs and collar edged with abone lace of gold.”

“ The Lady Marquis of Winchester. Asmock of cameryko wrought with tannysilk and black, the ruffs and collar edgedwith a bone lace of silver .”—New Year’s

Gifts, 1578-9.

38 “ A bearing cloth,” for the Squire’schild, is mentioned in the “ Winter’sTale.”

38 Many of these christening robes oflace and point are preserved as heirloomsin old families; some are of old guipure,others of Flanders lace, and later ofValenciennes, or needle-point. The bibformed of guipure pndded with tiny mit-tens of lace were also furnished to com-plete the suit.

T