292

HISTORY OF LACE.

the quarter sessions arrayed in the new fashion, owned “ one mayspeak as good sense in a falling band as in a ruff.” The changedid not, however, diminish the extravagance of the age. The billsfor the king’s lace and linen, which in the year 1625 amounted to1000Z., in course of time rose to 1500Z. 57 Falling bands of Flandersbone lace and cutwork appear constantly in the accounts. 58 As theforeign materials are carefully specified (it was one of the articles,then a novelty, that Queen Anne of Denmark “ bought of theFrench Mann ”), we may infer much of the bobbin or bone lace tohave been of home produce. As Ben -Tonson says, “ Rich apparelhas strong virtues.” It is, he adds, “the birdlime of fools.”There was, indeed, no article of toilet at this period which was notencircled with lace—towels, sheets, shirts, caps, cushions, boots

Fig. 116. Fig. 117.

' ’l’li '

From an engraving of Abraham Bosse. From an engraving of Abraham Boise.

(Fig. 116),cuffs (Fig. 117); and, as too often occurs in the case ofexcessive luxury, when the bills came in. money was wanting todischarge them; Julian Elliott, the royal lace merchant, seldomreceiving more than half her account, and in 1630—nothing. 69There were, as Shakespeare says,

“ Ronds entered into

For gay apparel against tlie triumph day.”"

” In 1633, the bills having risen to1500i. a year, a project is made forreducing the charge for the king’s finelinen and bone lace, “ for his body,” againto 1C00Z. per annum, for which sum it“ may be very well done .”—State Papers,Rhas. I. vol. cexxxiv. No. 83.

s8 “Raid to Smith Wilkinson, for 420yards of good Flanders bone lace for 12

day ruffes and 6 night ruffes ‘ cum cuffeseisdem,’ 87 1. 15s.

“For 6 falling bands made of goodbroad Flanders luce and Cuttworks withcuffs of the same, 52Z. 16s.”— Gt. IV. A.Car. I. 6 = 1631.

59 See G. W. A. Mich. 1629 to April1630.

69 •• Twelfth Night.”