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A history of lace / by Mrs. Bury Palliser
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CHAKLES I.

2 03

The quantity of needlework purl consumed on the kings hunt-ing collars,colures pro venatioue, scarcely appears credible.One entry alone makes !)!)4 yards for 12 collars and 24 pairs ofcuffs. 01 Again, GOO yards of fine bone lace is charged for trimmingthe ruffs of the kings night-clothes. 62

The art of lace-making was now carried to great perfection inEngland; so much so that the lease of twenty-one years, grantedin 1027 to Dame Barbara Villiers, of the duties on gold and silverthread, became a terrible loss to the holder, who, in 1021), petitionsfor a discharge of 4371.10s. arrears due to the crown. The prayeris favourably received by the officers of the customs, to whom itwas referred, who answer they conceive those duties will decay,for the invention of making Venice gold and silver lace within thekingdom is come to that perfection that it will be made here morecheap than it can be brought from beyond seas. 63 The fancy forforeign articles still prevailed. Among the goods brought in byTristram Stephens, writes Sir John Hippisley, from Dover Castle* are the bravest French bandes that ever I did see for ladiestheybe lit for the Queen. 64

Gold lace was exported in considerable quantities to India inthe days of James I.; 65 and now, in 1631, we find theribandroses, edged with lace, notified among the articles allowed to beexported. These lace rosette-trimmed shoes were in vogue in thetime of James L, and when first brought to that monarch, herefused to adopt the fashion, asking if they wanted to make aruffe-footed dove of him. They were afterwards worn in all the

81 G. W. A. Car. I. I ho Annunciation9 to Midi. 11.

65 Ibid. 8 and 9.

63 State Papers, Dotn. Charles I. vol.cxlix. No. 31.

** In a letter to Mr. Edward Nicholas,Sec. of the Admiralty, 7 March 1G27(afterwards Sec. of State to Chas. II.).State Papers, Dom. Charles I. vol.cxxiii. 62.

Among the State Pupers(vol. exxvi.70) is a letter from Susan Nicholas toher loveing Brother, 1G28, about lacefor his band. She writes: I have sentyon your bootehose and could have sentyour lase for your band, but that I did teethese Insecs which to my thought did do agruddenle better than that wh you didliespcukc, and tho best of them will cost

no more then that which is half a crowneayard, and so the uppermost will cost you,and the other will cost 18 pence; I didthiulie you would rather btaye somi thinglong for it then to pay so deare for thatwh would make no better show; if youlike either of these, you shall have itsonedespteh, for I am promise to have it madein a fortnight. I haue received the moniefrom my consson Huuton. Ileare is nonews to wright of. Thus with my bestlove remembred unto you, I rest your veryloving sister,

Si'sanne Nicholas.

I have sent ye the lase ye foyrst be-spoke, to compare them together, to seewhich ye like best.

« See p. 287, note "