France and the Netherlands are no less well represented than Italy inFrau Vieweg-Brockhaus’ collection — There is Point de France in allits different styles (Ns. 107—118, plates 71, 72, 74, 80, 81), from the narrowedging to the broad flounces of ceremonial albs. The wellknown, butnevertheless scarce design of undulating scrollwork with a multitudeof leaves and blossoms is characteristically represented by the roundborder of an alb and cuffs to match (No. 107, plate 80), the beautiful Re-gency lace on plate 81 (No. 109) is its counterpart. Point de France beingcomparatively rare in Germany this is worth noticing. The variety ofthe baroque pillow lace (Ns. 179—213, plates 44, 47 , 54 , 55 , 57—59, 70, 75,75—79, 82, 85) gives striking evidence of Helene Vieweg’s independentjudgment as a collector, for it is remarkable how low the artistic qualityof bobbin lace is rated on the market. Its technique makes it ranklower than needle point, no matter how artisticall’y it is done. This isthe case also with the delicate and exquisitely worked pillow lace ofthe i8 th Century, the highest aim of which was the resemblance of thenoble needle point.

The plates of this work are arranged according to the style of the indi-vidual lace, in contrast to the technical order of the catalogue; thusneedle point and pillow lace of the same period are shown side by sideand manifest their close formal kinship independent of their technicaldifference. From the very beginning, in the i6 th Century needle pointleads the way. The needle creates the new ideas and expresses themaccording to its methods, but the pillow lace follows closely. The heavyVenetian baroque needle point, the Point gros de Venise, with its swell-ing relief was not to be copied by aid of the bobbin, however cleverlythe border relief was imitated by the gimp. The effect of depth of theFlanders pillow lace is astonishing and is achieved in spite of its abso-lutely flat texture and merely by the monumental design of scrollworkwithout a background.

The evolution of the heavy baroque lace style and the various inter-esting phases of pillow lace leading up to the masterpieces of the 18^Century, may be closely studied in this collection. In its rivalry withthe Point de France, the bobbin succeeded in creating the large stateRococo lace as well as the dainty and fashionable trimmings for lady’swear destined for nothing but flattery.

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