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able ; now water, now mud ; the climate hot; and ventilation excluded by a crowd ofaquatics. I figured ficknefs and difeafe in every quarter: and the want of fcatteredhabitations renders the whole filent and folitary, in fpite of a confiderable population,that is concealed by the endlefs pollards. Willows, ditches, mud, and frogs! thefe arefeatures in perfeCl contrail to the fcenes of lalt night! yet they are attended by a fertilitythat gives warbling to the throat, and quivering to the fantallic toe of beauty. AtCodogno waited on Signore Bignami, a confiderable cheefe-merchant. I was in luck;a numerous company fpent the evening with him, from whom he feleCled a party wellacquainted with grais and cows ; and retiring into another apartment, they had thegoodnefs, with him and hisfon, to dedicate fome time to the fatisfying of my enquiries;and I Ihould be very backward if I did not oblerve that the free and agreeable mannerin which they did it, proves equally their liberality and politenefs. Codogno is a neatlittle town of about eight thoufand people. And note (for the thing is extraordinary,)an opera here too ; another new built theatre, of this year. It is not fo large, or fomuch decorated as that of Lodi, but the form is more pleafing and more commodious ;it is more circular. There are apartments contiguous for the firll fingers and dancers,communicating with a noble inn, the albergo del teatro.-15 miles.
The 13th. This morning Signore Bignami had kindly appointed for examining one ofthe principal dairies in the country, noted for making good cheefe ; fortunately thefarmer proved communicative and liberal,—conducted us to the fcene of aCtlon veryreadily, and directed his dairy.man to anfwer my enquiries. We attended the makingof a cheefe, and then walked over the farm : the farmers feem much at their eafe.Take leave of my very friendly conductors, and reach C.rema, in the Venetian flate.Here alfo a new-built opera-houfe, and the Mara from London firft finger ; they didnot appear to relifh too much her altitudes of divifion,—yet Ihe was confiderably ap-plauded. Great powers in finging, when much exerted in difficult paffages, furprizemuch more than they pleafe-. The airs that touch the heart, are what the poet calls“ lengthened fweetnefs long drawn out,’’ that breathe a continuity of melody, flowing,not broken nof.es. The number of theatres in this part of Italy is aftoniffiing: twogreat ones at Milan ; in twenty miles, another, at Lodi; in fifteen, one way, Codogno ;in ten, another, Crema; in ten, another, Plaifance, &c.—yet trade and manufacture arevery inconfiderable.-16 miles.
The 14th. To Lodi, through ten miles more of the fame country; bad road throughthe flate of Venice; but the moment you enter the Milanefe, you find an excellent one.Return to Milan.-30 miles.
The 15th. The country continues flat, much of it watered, but without fuch exer-tions as to Lodi; all a crowded fcene of willows. Vaprio, where we flopped, is a poorplace, with a dirty, miferable, wretched inn : here am I in a chamber, that finks myfpirits as I fit and look around me ; my pen, ink, and tablets, are ufelefs before me ;
I want them for two or three fubjeCts that have pafled acrofs my mind in the journey,but I can do nothing ; to arrange ten words with propriety, is an infurmountable effort.
J never in my life wrote three lines to pleafe myfelf, when the circumftances aroundwere untoward or difagreeable; a clean, neat apartment, a good fire, fomething to eatbetter than parte-foup, with tolerable wine, give a lightnefs to the bofom, and a facilityto the ideas. 1 have not yet read any of the Abbate Amoretti’s pieces; but if he writesbadly in that elegant apartment, and with all the circumrtances of eafe and luxury aroundhim, I ffiall not have fo good an opinion of his head, as I think I lhall always have ofids heart. This chamber of Vaprio is contrail fufficient to his in the Palazzo Cul'ani.
I can-