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whence you have a fine profpeft, but which the bad weather that reigned while wewere there prevented our enjoying. Adjoining to the principal building is a tolerablylarge kitchen garden with fome fraall hot houfes, at the extremity of which is a palif-fade, through which you have a delightful view of the river; in this fpot it is amazing-ly wide, and more refembles a’ lake lludded with iflands than a river. On the fide ofthe manfion, in a fmall pavillion, we faw a collection of three or four hundred birdsfluffed, and a pretty apartment of fhells. The catalogue of thefe two collections isprinted, but the proprietor is daily making additions to them. In the fame apartmentis a library of books relative to natural hiftory ; in the billiard-room on the fide fomeimpaled animals, fuch as the fox, the glutton, a white fox, another white and grey, awild cat of a large fize called a lynx, &c.
We cannot fpeak too highly of the kindnefs of Mr. Grill, at whofe houfe we lived,and with difficulty were fullered to lodge at the inn at which we arrived. He {hewedus every thing himfelf with the greateft politenefs, and explained every thing with theutmoft civility. Willingly would we have had to fpeak as favourably of him with re-gard to his collection of medals at Stockholm : but after giving a formal promife tofhew us them he put us off from one day to another, and finally gave for anfwer thatthey were packed up and could not be fhewn. This brings to memory the expreffionfo well known—A Jhewed himfelf a brave man fuch a day —and proves that politenefsmay fometimes be ephemeral.
From Sudersfors to Upfal is feven miles and a quarter, by Tfre, Lebu, and Hceugjla.You travel almoft wholly on the eftate of Mr. Grill for the firit ftage, tracing back theload by which you came for about three quarters of a mile; afterwards you turn tothe right, and having gone further three quarters of a mile you find yourfelf again onthe high road to Upfal. Half a mile before you reach Yfre you pafs over a bridgeacrofs a river, and a quarter of a mile beyond another, the parapets of which are ofiron; from this you have the profpeft of a number of charming cafcades. In order toreach the poft-houfe you leave the high road on the left, and join it again by a crofsroad. On this ftage you notice one of the largeft plains in Sweden : thence to Upfafwe traverfed plains and a well cultivated country ; a quarter of a mile before you ar-rive there you pafs by the fide of the church of Old Upfal, celebrated in the days ofpaganifm, but at prefent abandoned. We faw afterwards feveral heaps of ftones, underwhich, according to tradition, fome ancient kings lie buried.
Chap. XIII.— Upfal. —The Cathedral. — Univerfity. — Cabinets.■—Itf ructions for travel-ing the Alps of Lapland .
UPSAL, formerly the capital of Sweden, at prefent of Upland, is a very fmall city ,and contains fcarcely more than four thoufand inhabitants, exclufive of the ftudents,the number of which, as is the cafe of all univerfities, occafionally differs, but whichmay be generally eftimated at five hundred at leaft. From the caftle, a tolerably largebut irregular building, you have a very fine view of the town and country ; and thenceit is that you are enabled to form the belt eftimate of its extent*. A river runs throughit which has a communication with lake Mceler, and which is of benefit to the very tri-fling commerce carried on by the town. Notwithftanding the inconfiderablenefs of itstrade, if the extent of the city be regarded, it is very well inhabited, for independent ofthofe, who from their fituations are obliged to refide here, fuch as the Governor, and
* We did not notice by the fide of the gates the tun full of water, which is defcribed by the Dutchtraveller ^Le Voyageur Hollaadais).
the