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A practical handbook of dyeing and calico-printing / by William Crookes
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MADDER STYLES.

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execution of madder dyeing, it is of course evident that the details vary indifferent works within certain limits, and therefore the undermentioned figureshave no absolute value, but may serve to illustrate the operation, while itshould be at the same time understood that the stridt observance of the under-quoted prescriptions yields excellent results on the large scale.

A. Ordinary Madder Style Work.

The previously mordanted and cleansed goods are washed in the washing-machine for half an hour.

No. 1. White ground, with red and black designs :—For goo metres ofcloth—9 pieces, each 100 metres in length (100 metres are equal to 109*363yards), are dyed at the same time—10 kilos, of fleur de garance ; 10 kilos, ofmadder ; 1200 litres of water. The temperature should be regularly raisedfrom 19 0 to 82° during two hours, and be kept for half an hour at the highestpoint. If the pattern is heavy (that is to say, one which leaves little white)the weights of madder and fleur should be each 25 kilos, for the same amountof water.

No. 2. White ground, with a light design, puce-coloured :—900 metres ofcloth: 7*5 kilos, of fleur de garance; 7*5 kilos, of madder; 1200 litres ofwater. The temperature to be raised in two hours from 38° to 82°.

No. 3. Puce and red ; a heavier pattern upon a white ground :—goo metresof cloth: 20 kilos, of fleur de garance and 20 kilos, of madder; and again1200 litres of water. The temperature should be raised in two hours (that isto say, the dyeing process performed during that time), the temperature beingregulated from 38° to 82°.

No. 4. White ground with a pink design :—900 metres of cloth : 35 kilos,of madder and 1200 litres of water. The dyeing process to last three hours,the temperature being raised gradually during that time from 38° to 75 0 .

No. 5. White ground with a deep pink pattern :—900 metres of cloth :25 kilos, of madder; 1200 litres of water. Dyeing process and temperatureas with No. 4.

No. 6. Rose-red pattern upon pink ground :—goo metres of cloth : 72 kilos,of madder ; 1200 litres of water. Dyeing process and temperature as indi-cated under No. 4.

No. 7. Lilac and black pattern upon a white ground, the colours of thepattern not very deep :—cloth, goo metres : madder, 15 kilos.; fleur de garance,

15 kilos.; water, 1200 litres. The dyeing process to last two hours, and thetemperature to be gradually raised from 38° to 88°.

No. 8. Lilac and black pattern upon white ground, the design being mode-rately heavy. It will be quite clear to any one who takes the trouble to inspecta few hundred samples of variously printed cloths, in madder styles, that theremust, as regards the quantity of madder to be used, exist a relation betweenthat quantity and the quantity of mordant, which of course depends upon theextent of the design in relation to the white ground left. Cloth, 900 metres :

16 kilos, of fleur and 16 of madder, with 1200 litres of water, and the dyeingprocess and temperature as in No. 7.

Since a higher temperature has the effeft of rendering the reds a bad colour,pieces containing red designs are never heated higher than 82°, and preferablyeven less. It should be observed here, also, that instead of madder, or a