GARANCIN STYLE.

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it is therefore necessary to attend to the purity of the water to be used, neu-tralising it, if required, with oxalic acid. Purpurin dyes with great facilityand at a very moderate temperature; the bath is perfedtly clear, and mayserve until exhausted.

Upon calico, red and black mordants are dyed very quickly ; a weak soapbath (clearing) of from 44 0 to 49 0 restores the whites and brightens the colours.Purple mordants take the colour with the same facility, but the shades aresomewhat greyish. In order to fasten purpurin colours and preserve thewhites it is necessary to mix purpurin with from fifteen to twenty times itsweight of bran and a sufficient quantity of water at about 40°, and add it to abath at about 55 0 , which is then heated so as to boil in about forty-fiveminutes, and kept boiling for the same time, during which the pieces arepassed into it, and afterwards into a boiling bran bath ; after which a simplewashing will suffice to render the whites perfedt.

To prepare a steam-colour with purpurin, for cloth mordanted with analuminous mordant, the following is the best plan :—To the purpurin is added20 per cent of its weight of carbonate of soda ; the whole to be well groundtogether ; hot rain-water is added, when a magnificent red solution is obtained,which is filtered and left to cool. It is then thickened with starch to therequired consistence, and maybe preserved without alteration fora long time.When required it is printed, steamed, and washed in cold water. With20 grms. (about 300 grains) of purpurin per quart a good colour is obtained.If in filtering the purpurin solution there is any deposit on the filter, it maybe used in ordinary dyeing.

We have now to diredt our attention to the operation known as clearing(i avivage ): the colours obtained with garancin, alizarin (commercial), andpurpurin are sufficiently pure and also quite brilliant enough not to require theoperations necessary for madder-dyed stuffs for increasing or bringing outthese properties. All that is required is a thorough washing, in order torestore to the whites the proper degree of purity. This purpose is attainedby the application either of soap or of a bran bath, the latter chiefly appliedto garancin browns (puce-colour), and to such patterns on white ground as'donot contain purple. This branning is, stridtly speaking, an avivage ,* but oneof a very mild character as compared with that in general use for madder-dyedmaterials.

For a puce ground, without any purple design, the following ingredients areused for 18 pieces of goods, at 100 metres each:—Water, 1200 litres; bran,9 kilos.; cow-dung, 2-5 kilos. Temperature, 56°; duration of the bath, i.e.,time of keeping goods in, 30 minutes.

For goods with white ground, without purple, again for 18 pieces:—Water1200 litres; bran, 9 kilos.; cow-dung, 1-5 kilos. Temperature, from 38° to57°i time, 30 minutes.

Branned goods are not afterwards soaped, but simply washed in the washing-machine for half an hour, with cold or tepid water. Soaping—that is to say,the immersion of the goods into a more or less concentrated soap solution, ata more or less high degree of heat, sometimes raised to the boiling-point ofwater—is performed, with garancin-dyed articles which contain purple, for thedouble purpose of better fixing that colour and for increasing its brightness.

* Literally, a rendering more lively, and this signification is not precisely implied in theword clearing.