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DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING.

belonging to two or more styles, to each of which they might with equaljustice be ascribed. These styles are —

I. Madder Colours, with several Variations.

In its plainest form one or two mordants—namely, red liquor and ironliquor—are printed on the goods, which are then dyed in the madder-beck.The result is a white ground, with a pattern which may be black; red; blackand red ; black and two shades of red, the red liquor having been applied indifferent strengths; red, black, and purple, the purple being produced by ironliquor weaker than is required to give a black. Chocolate may be added bycausing both red and iron liquor to be applied to the certain parts of thedesign. Brown is also obtained by the introdudtion of catechu.

Another variation of the madder style is more complicated :—Iron liquor,red liquor, or combinations of both, are printed on, and also lime-juice,technically called “ acid.” The piece is then printed over—technically called“ covered ”—with a fine pattern, in purple or light chocolate, and dyed upwith madder. The red mordant used in this process is of a peculiar kind,known as resist-red. Where the resist-red and the lime-juice have beenprinted on, the purple and chocolate are prevented from fastening, and thereremain, consequently, pure red and clear white portions, whilst the rest istaken up with the fine cover pattern. Sometimes a very weak purple is“ blotched ” or padded all over, when the only white portions remaining arethose where the acid has been printed on. This style obviously admits of theproduction of a great diversity of effects.

A further variation is the French pink style, which consists entirely ofdifferent shades of red and pink. Red mordant of different strengths, if morethan one shade of red or pink be required, are printed on, and also acid (lime-juice) for the production of whites. The whole may then be either “ covered ”or blotched with the appropriate mordant for a very pale red. The whole isthen dyed in the madder-beck and cleared with soap, as will be describedbelow. All the variations of the madder style produce fast colours, which, indomestic phraseology, wash well.

II. Garancin Colours.

This style is very similar to the preceding, garancin being used instead ofmadder. The colours used are generally heavier and darker, deep reds,browns, and oranges predominating. Catechu is largely used as an accessory.In this style the goods do not undergo a final treatment with soap, and thecolours are less permanent than those dyed with madder.

III. Reserved Style.

This style may be termed a combination of either of the two former withthe eighth (Steam-Colour Style). After the madder-work has been dyed andcleared, a further design—in yellow, blue, or green—is blocked in, and fixed bythe steaming process. Sometimes a “ resist paste ” is blocked on, so as toprotect the whole or certain portions of the pattern originally produced, anda small pattern in drab, slate, buff, &c., is printed over all. Or, instead ofcolours mordants are printed on in like manner, and the goods are subsequentlydyed in cochineal, bark liquor, &c., which of course only take effedt where