STYLES.

565

these mordants have been attached. Sometimes white portions are protectedby the reserve paste, and various lively colours are subsequently blocked inupon these. This style produces an extreme variety of effects.

IV. Padding Styles.

The whole cloth is padded all over with a suitable mordant. A design isnext printed on in acid (discharge), and the goods are dyed. The result iswhite spots—when the acid has been printed on—upon a ground of one uniformcolour. Upon the white discharged spots steam-colours or pigment-coloursmay again be printed.

V. Indigo-Blues.

A reserve paste, which may be accompanied by so-called yellow or orangemordants (see below), is printed upon the goods, which are then dyed up tothe required shade in the indigo-vat. The indigo is not deposited upon thespots where the reserve has been printed. Yellows and oranges, whererequired, are brought out by passing through a solution of bichrome, whichcombines with the salt of lead contained in the yellow and orange mordants.The result is a deep blue ground colour, with designs in white, yellow, ororange, upon which, again, steam-colours may be blocked in.

VI. China Blues.

In this style mixtures containing indigo are printed upon the white cloth,and the indigo is then fixed, producing a blue design upon a white ground.

VII. Turkey Red with Discharges.

The cloth is first dyed Turkey red, upon which certain discharge mixturesare printed. The goods are next worked in a solution of bleaching-lime,which, a&ing where the mixtures have been printed on, disharges the red.The result is, consequently, a white design upon a red ground. But alongwith the discharge there is frequently printed, on a pigment-colour, a mixturefor a black, or a salt of lead. In the latter case the pieces are subsequentlypassed through a solution of bichrome, which brings up a yellow. This stylemay therefore show designs in a variety of colours, the ground being alwaysTurkey red.

VIII. Steam-Colours.

The goods in this style are generally prepared with a per-salt of tin, bymeans of working in a solution of stannate of soda, followed up by a passagethrough a dilute acid liquid technically called “ sours.” The mixtures printedon consist of colouring matters,—often extracts of dye-woods,—mordants,acids, and salts. After printing, the pieces are exposed to steam in an appa-ratus described below, washed, and dried. This style is peculiarly applicableto animal fibre,—woollen and mixed tissues, and frequently also silks, arethus treated. It is also the general style for the coal-tar colours.

IX. Spirit-Colours.

These agree in their general chara&er with steam-colours, but contain largerproportions of acids and-metallic salts. After printing they are not steamed,but merely dried very carefully, exposed to the air for twenty-four to forty-eighthours, and washed.