MADDER STYLES.

575

No. 67. Fast Green .—

No. 65. ij quarts.

“ Lead gum ” (see below). 2 ,,

Tin crystals. 8 ozs.

No. 68. Lead Gum .—

Sugar of lead, white .. . 8 lbs.

Nitrate of lead . 4 „

Hot water . 1 gal.

Gum Senegal water, at 6 lbs. per "gal. 1 ,,

No. 6g. Drab .—

No. 60. 5 quarts.

Gum tragacanth water, at \ lb. per gal. .. .. 10 ,,

Cochineal liquor, at 4° Tw. . i| pints.

Bark liquor, at 8° Tw. . i£ ,,

No. 70. Fawn.—

No. 60. 1 gal.

Gum tragacanth water, at £ lb. per gal. 2 gals.

No. 8 i gal.

No. 71. Slate .—

No. 60. 1 gal.

Gum tragacanth water, at £ lb. per gal. 1 ,,

Before these mordants, technically called colours, are printed on to thecalico it requires to be bleached in the most thorough and complete manner(see p. 44). After printing the goods are transferred to the ageing room, seep. 280. The next process is the so-called dunging, effedted either with adtualcow-dung, with the dung-substitutes, or with a combination of both. For adetailed description of this process the reader is referred to p. 294. Nextfollows the dyeing ( garan<;age ), see p. 2gg. Finally comes the clearing orbrightening ( avivage ), see p. 312.

The Plate Style, another modification of madder work, requires a some-what modified procedure. For a plate purple, containing black and purpleonly, one shade or more of the latter, print on No. 61 a purple, say No. 30,regulated according to shade, and an acid, No. 50, and pad or cover in thewhole in a pale purple, No. 33. The goods are then aged, fly-dunged at170° F., and dunged again for half an hour at 163° F. They are next washedand dyed with ground Levant madder, to which have been added 5 per centof its weight of chalk and 3 quarts of bone-size. The temperature is raised intwo hours to 175 0 F., at which it is kept for half an hour. They are then wellwashed and soaped, using 5 lbs. of soap for fifteen pieces, each 30 yards byJths, and boiling for half an hour. It is then again well washed, and passed forfive minutes through 300 gallons of water, at 140° F., to which have been added2 quarts of solution of bleaching lime, at8°Tw. They are again rinsed, and boiledfor half an hour with 3 lbs. of soap per fifteen pieces. Next wash, and repeatthe chloride of lime treatment for five minutes, using 200 gallons of water,4 quarts solution of chloride of lime, at 8° Tw., and 2 lbs. carbonate of soda,at 160 0 F. Wash again well and dry.

Plate Pinks are composed of shades of red and pink only. The process isas follows:—Print on No. 34 dark red, with paler reds, as No. 36, and acid