57 6

DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING.

No. 49. A very pale red mixture is padded all over. The goods are thenaged for two or three days and dunged at 160° F., taking care not to use anydung substitute containing free alkali. Dye with the best French or Levantmadder. The shades produced are dyed purposely too full, from 4 to 6 lbs. ofAvignon madder being required per piece of l cloth. If the water is soft, chalkmay be added to the extent of about 5 per cent of the weight of madder.The dye-beck is steadily raised to 150° F. in two hours, and kept for half anhour at that heat. The pieces when dyed are firstly well washed and soapedat 140° F. for half an hour with J lb. soap per piece. Next they are well washedin water and placed in another beck of cold water, slightly acidified withsulphuric acid or perchloride (oxychloride) of tin. The heat is graduallyraised to 120° F. in about thirty minutes. When the goods show a brightorange colour they are lifted and winced in water. This process, the redudtionof the reds and pinks to the depth of shade they are to have when finished, iscalled “cutting.” The more this acid treatment is prolonged, and the higher

Madder Red and Pink.

the temperature, the paler the pinks become. The pieces are then put in afresh beck and boiled with soap for an hour, lifted, washed again in purewater, and boiled with soap and water at the pressure of 2 atmospheres fortwo or three hours. The goods are next lifted, washed, and entered in a freshbeck of water at 160° F., to which a very little bleaching soda (hypochlorite)has been added. After ten minutes in this solution they are washed anddried.

The above specimen will serve as an illustration of the madder style.

To produce this pattern, red liquor at 12° Tw., thickened with flour, isprinted in for the red, and a much weaker red liquor, similarly thickened, forthe pink. The pieces are then dunged, washed, dyed with madder, cleared,and finished. (See p. 299).

The above is the first of a series of three patterns, for which we areindebted to the kindness of Messrs. Wood and Wright, of Manchester.