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lf l uel y on the left side of the plane, and then bends withthe Same obli quity to comply with the fore end of the plane ;

two remaining fingers are turned inwards ; push thek forward, without moving your feet, and a shaving willischarged equal to the breadth of the rebate ; draw thee towards you again to the place you pushed it from, andpeat the operation : proceed in this manner until you have^ n ® Ver y near the depth of the rebate, move a step back-o, and proceed as before, go on by several successive steps,^Perating at each one as at first, until you get to the end ;, n you may take a shaving or two the whole length, or takej Vn any protuberant parts.

sid n bobbn n the fillister, care must be taken to keep the°ut 8 l Ver ^ ca '> an, l consequently the sole level : then cleanr , t le bottom and side of the rebate with the skew-facedte plane, that is, plane the bottom and side smooth, untilcome close to the gauge-lines : for this purpose the ironu s ^be set very fine, and equally prominent throughout theoadth of the sole.

Su'd ^ 0ur rebate exceed in breadth the distance which thee °f the fence can be set from the right side of the plane,8 ® a y make a narrow rebate on the side next to you, andtb e d l^ 0u o b t0 the full breadth, and the stop of the plough tothe p e l >tl: ma ke a groove next to the gauge-line: then withthe t ' rmer ohlsel cut off the wood between the groove andVer re ^? te level with the bottom; or should the rebate bel e ^ wide, you may make several intermediate grooves,h r 'I*8 the wood between every two adjacent grooves of lessha . than the firmer chisel, so as to be easily cut out;littl ° t *' e rebate roughed out, you may make the bottom ar eh Stn °°ther with the paring chisel; then with a common°f . e Plane, about an inch broad in the sole, plane the sidePlan^ 6 next to the vertical side, and with the jack

_ e take off the irregularities of the wood left by the chiselske^ 1 t * le farther side of the bottom of the rebate with thePlan re ^ ate plane, as also the vertical side : with the tryingi s Smooth the remaining part next to you, until the rebateano.j e \ ts full depth. If anything remain in the internalthi^ 1 !*" ? na y be cut away with a fine-set paring chisel; butoi'dp t .' Vl ^ hardly be necessary when the tools are in good

l"

th atl ,f n tb e breadth and depth of the rebate is not greatere^ppj. ? depth which the plough can be set to work, the most"Wit},- U, °us method of making a rebate, is by grooving ittl le . n tbe gauge-lines on each side of the arris, and so takingW 0r ^ ® t:e °ut without the use of the chisel: then proceed totn eang lle bottom and side of the groove, as before. By thesetebat ^ 0U have the several methods of rebating when thebe f Q 6 18 uaade on the left edge of the stuff: but if the rebatet\v 0 „■ 5 ne u from the right-hand arris, it must be planed on

stuff

sides,

or on one side and an edge, as before ; place the

y° Ut Q inat the arris of the two planed sides may be next tothat is ^ ^ le sash-fillister to the whole breadth of the stuffyou to be left standing, and the stop to the depth, thenJ< 0 a y Proceed to rebate as before.

Piece | i** 6 across the grain .—Nail a straight slip across thethe f; n be re bated, so that the straight edge may fall upontop * which the vertical side of the rebate makes with theside 0 f , st ulf> keeping the breadth of the slip entirely to one^Oovinw 6 re b ate 5 then having set the stop of the dadore ni S Plane to the depth of the rebate, holding the plane°Perati run a groove across the wood ; repeat the sameloavi tKr ° n 1,1 one or more places in the breadth of the rebate,that, tf, e . :ic b interstice or standing-up part something less®Ut a; V! ^ breadth of the firmer chisel: then with that chisel*11, j n y these parts between every two grooves, but be care-01n g this, that you do not tear the wood up; pare the

bottom pretty smooth, or after having cut the rough awaywith the chisel, take a rebating plane with the iron set ratherrank, and work the prominent parts down to the aforesaidgrooves nearly. Lastly, with a fine-set screwed rebatingplane, smooth the bottom next to the vertical side of therebate. The other parts of the bottom may be taken com-pletely down with a fine-set smoothing plane: in this manneryou may make a tenon of any breadth.

Stairs . —Are one of the most important things to be con-sidered in a building, not only with regard to the situation,but as to the design and execution: the convenience of thebuilding depends on the situation, and the elegance on thedesign and execution of the workmanship. A staircase oughtto be sufficiently lighted, and the head-way uninterrupted.The half paces and quarter paces ought to be judiciouslydistributed. The breadth of the steps ought never to bemore than 15 inches, nor less than 10, the height not morethan 7, nor less than 5 ; there are cases, however, which areexceptions to all rule. When you have the height of thestory given in feet, and the height of the step in inches, youmay throw the feet into inches, and divide the height of thestory in inches by the height of the step ; if there be noremainder, or if the remainder be less than the half of thedivisor, the quotient will show the number of steps : hut ifthe remainder be greater than the half of the divisor, youmust take one step more than the number shown by the quo-tient ; in the two latter cases, you must divide the height ofthe story by the number of steps, and the quotient will givethe exact height of a step : in the first case you have theheight of the steps at once, and this is the case whateverdescription the stairs are of. In order that people may pas 3freely, the length of the step ought never to be less than4 feet, though in town-houses, for want of room, the going ofthe stair is frequently reduced to 2^ feet.

Stairs have several varieties of structure, which dependprincipally on the situation and destination of the building.

Geometrical stairs are those which are supported by oneend being fixed in the wall, and every step in the ascenthaving an auxiliary support from that immediately below it, ■and the lowest step, consequently, from the floor. j

Dog-legged stairs are those which have no opening or well- ihole, the rail and balusters of both the progressive and return- :ing flights fall in the same vertical planes, the steps being !fixed to strings, newels, and carriages, and the ends of the ’steps of the inferior kind terminating only upon the side of !the string, without any housing. For farther particulars, seeDog-Legged Staies.

Bracket stairs are those that have an opening or well, withstrings and newels, and are supported by landings andcarriages, the brackets mitering to the ends of each riser,and fixed to the string-hoard, which is moulded below likean architrave.

The same methods must be observed as to taking the jdimensions of bracket stairs, and laying down the plan and :section, as in dog-legged stairs. In all stairs whatever, afterhaving ascertained the number of steps, take a rod, the height !of the story from the surface of the lower floor to the surfaceof the upper floor : divide the rod into as many equal parts jas there are to be risers, then if you have a level surface to jwork upon below the stair, try each one of the risers as you |go on, this will prevent any excess or defect, which even the ismallest difference will occasion ; for any error, however ,small, when multiplied, becomes of considerable magnitude,and even the difference of an inch in the last riser being toohigh or too low, will not only have a bad effect to the eye, ibut will be apt to confound persons not thinking of any such ;irregularity. In order to try the steps properly by the story- ,