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GageGroundsHand-KailHand-RailingHanging of DoorsHanging StileHeading JointHingesHingingHousing, andImpages.

Gluing up of a Base refersto Base ; Bridge-Board re-

Anythingexplained in the subsequent part

fers to Notch-Board ; CurtailStep refers to the articleStair ; Dog-legged Stairs refers to Staircasing; andInlaying refers to Marquetry and Veneering. Among theforegoing articles, BoardedFloor, Floor, Boxing of aWindow, and Description,are of considerable length ;Hand-Railing and Hingingare complete articles, accom-panied with plates.

omitted in the foregoing catalogue will beof this article.

Mouldings .—The names of moulding in joinery, accordingto their situation and combination, in various pieces of joiners’work.

Figure 1, edge, said to be rounded.

Figure 2, quirked bead, or bead and quirk.

Figure 3, bead and double quirk, or return bead.

Figure 4, double bead, or double bead and quirk.

Figure 5, single torus.

Figure 6, double torus. Here, it is to be observed, thatthe distinction between torus mouldings and beads, in joinery,is, that the outer edge of the former always terminates witha fillet, whether the torus be double or single, whereas inbeads there is no fillet on the outer edge.

Figure- 7, 8, 9, single, double, and triple reeded mouldings;semi-cylindric mouldings are denominated reeds , either whenthey are terminated by a straight surface equally protuberanton both sides, as in these figures, or disposed longitudinallyround the circumference of a shaft; but if only terminatedon one side with a flush surface, they are then either beadsor torus mouldings.

Figure 10, reeds disposed round the convex surface of acylinder.

Figure 11, 12, 13, fluted work. When the flutes aresemicircular, as in Figure 11, it is necessary that there shouldbe some distance between them, as it would be impossible tobring their junction to an arris ; but in flutes, whose sectionsare flat segments, they generally meet each other withoutany intermediate straight surface between them. The reasonof this is, that the light and shade of the adjoining hollowsare more contrasted, the angle of their meeting being moreacute than if a flat space were formed between them. SeeFigures 12 and 13.

Figure 14, simple astragal, or half round bar, for sashes.

Figure 15, quirked astragal bar.

Figure 16, quirked Gothic bar.

Figure 17, another form of a Gothic bar.

Figure 18, double ogee bar. This and the preceding formsare easily kept clean.

Figure 19, quirked astragal and hollow. Bars of thisstructure have been long in use.

Figure 20, double reeded bar.

Figure 21, triple reeded bar.

Figure 22, base moulding of a room, with part of theskirting. When the base mouldings are very large, theyought to be sprung, as in this diagram.

A. The base moulding.

B. Part of the plinth.

In order to know of what thickness a board would berequired to get out a moulding upon the spring, the bestmethod is to draw the moulding out to the full size, thendraw a line parallel to the general line of the moulding, so as

to make it equally strong throughout its breadth, and also ofsufficient strength for its intended purpose.

Figure 23, a cornice. The part a forming the corona, isgot out of a plank,

b. A bracket.

C. The moulding on the front spring.

D. A cover board forming the upper fillet.

e. A moulding, sprung below the corona.

f. A bracket.

Shutters to be cut must first be hung the whole length,and taken down and cut: but observe that you do not cutthe joint by the range of the middle bar, but at right anglesto the sides of the sash-frame ; for unless this be done, the ,ends will not all coincide when folded together. In order tohang shutters at the first trial, set off the margin from thebead on both sides, then take half the thickness of theknuckle of the hinge, and prick it on each side, from the mar-gin so drawn towards the middle of the window, at the ;places of the hinges, put in brads at these pricks, then putting jthe shutter to its place, screw it fast, and when opened, it 1will turn to the place intended.

Mouldings are mitred by means of a templet, which is a |small piece of wood, moulded in a reverse form to the mould-ings that are to be mitred, so that the surface of the templetmay coincide with that of the surface of the moulding, and to \a portion of the plane surface of the framing, both on the 1face and on the edge adjoining : the ends of the templet are ;cut to an angle of 45 degrees in a plain perpendicular to theface, the one end forming a right angle with the other.

To scribe one piece of board or stuff to another. —When •the edge end, or side, of one piece of stuff is fitted close tothe superficies of another, it is said to be scribed to it. Thus \the skirting boards of a room should be scribed to the floor.

In moulded framing, the moulding upon the rails, if notquirked, are scribed to the styles, and muntins upon rails. '

To scribe the edge of a board against any uneven surface.

—Lay the edge of the board over its place, with the face inthe position in which it is to stand, with a pair of stiff com-pases opened to the widest part, keeping one leg close to theuneven surface, move or draw the compasses forward, so thatthe point of the other leg may mark a line on the board, andthat the two points may always be in a straight line, parallelto the straight line in which the two points were at the com-mencement of the motion : then cut away the wood betweenthis line and the bottom edge, and they will coincide witheach other.

To rebate a piece of stuff .—When the rebate is to be madeon the arris next to you, the stuff must be first tried-up ontwo sides : if the rebate be not very large, set the guide olthe fence of the moving fillister to be within the distance <•*the horizontal breadth of the intended rebate ; and screw thestop so that the guide may be something less than the verticaldepth of the rebate from the sole of the plane ; set the iro°so as to be sufficiently rank, and to project equally below th esole of the plane ; make the left-hand point of the cutting'edge flush with the left-hand side of the plane; the toothshould be a small matter without the right-hand side. P 1 ' 0 'ceed now to gauge the horizontal and vertical dimensions •’the rebate : begin your work at the fore end of the stuff; th <! jplane being placed before you, lay your right hand partly °' 1 jthe top hind end of the plane, your four fingers upon the 1®'* Iside, and your thumb upon the right, the middle part of d |lS ipalm of the hand resting upon the round of the plane betwec' 1 Ithe top and the end ; lay the thumb of your left hand o' e ' ithe top of the fore end of the plane, bending the thum ’ jdownwards upon the right-hand side of the plane, while t'’ 41 1upper division of the fore-finger, and the one next to it, g 0 " 3